2014 MN triton soot around engine block/egr system area a...

Dear customer In extreme cases, you'll need to disassemble the intake side of the engine, manually clean it and put it back together. Along the way, you can try to clean out the EGR valve, but most workshops reckon you'll wind up replacing it. A lot of places we talked to reckon you can use an aerosol product that gives the intake manifold and its plumbing a quick, chemical pull-through. The trick is you need to use it every service as it can only keep a lid on things, it's not a rebuild-in-a-can product. If your engine is too far down the road to being clogged up, you're back to square one. You can test the EGR valve to see if it's still functioning, but if it's stuck open, you're most probably looking down the barrel of a new valve assembly. Some folks will tell you the best thing to do is disable the EGR valve by blocking it off. That stops the soot from mixing with the oil-fumes, but it's illegal to tamper with the emissions controls on a motor vehicle, so you're leaving yourself open to lots of legal and potential insurance hassles. Not to mention what Mitsubishi would do with your warranty if there's a claim down the track. A better idea is to fit an air-oil-separator which, as the name suggests, separates the oil from the crankcase fumes before the fumes are sucked back into the engine. It's not uncommon for the separator to have up to several hundred millilitres of oil in it at each service, and that's the oil that would otherwise be turning the soot into crud inside your intake. An oil-separator differs from a simple catch-can system because it can physically separate the oil from the gasses, so you need a specialised kit to do it. please feel free to send me any related request.

Yep, I understand the issue and need of having soot/gunk build in the egr valve and/or intake manifold.. That does not answer my question though.My question being the what is or how to definitively diagnose whistling noise from that side of the engine when dOing 2000rpm or over and exhaust soot, being on the outside of the engine block which is hard for me to tell definitely on the exact fault area? As said previously I thought it was from the egr pipe gasket ( which was damaged due to a stud being loose, worn thread ). Helicoiled the hole, replaced those two gaskets and that has not fixed the problem ( well it may have fixed one of the problems , only there is obviously another )..Are you saying that a blocked egr valve , issue with valve flap opening/closing is making the whistling noise and blowing tge exhaust fumes ( soot ) in my engine bay ?? If that is the case how is the exhaust fume getting out and how is that making the loud whistling Tinng sound ??

The flap abnormal function and the EGR have an impact on the mixture ration of air and fuel what can increase the soot

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