Well, I drive but the throttle cuts out

Welcome to Just Answer. My name is\*\*\*\*\* am a manufacturer trained and ASE Master Technician. I am here to help. I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble with your vehicle today. The system will offer you a phone call. Feel free to accept or decline this service. It does not come directly from me. I cannot provide phone assistance outside the US. Please give me a few moments to go over your concerns. First and foremost let me give you a little information on how this platform works. It is a strict one question one answer service. You ask one question and I will get as many details as I can from you. The reason for this is so I can provide you as accurate an answer as possible. Once I have submitted your answer please feel free to let me know if any clarification is needed about the answer to your question! Now, I know you had a short chat with our lovely assistant but there may be more information. Would you mind sending me your many details as you can about the problem? This will allow me to give you the most accurate information possible based on your specific vehicle. Please know this is not an auto response message system. I am a full time automotive technician, I review cases as they come in. If you do not receive a prompt response, this means I have stepped away momentarily or are working on your case as well as many others. Do you have vag com scan tool? Thanks

I doWhat is a VAG com scan tool?my ODBII has VOLKSWAGEN specific tools

I've got a 2003 VW Passat W8 wagon I do have old gas, but this cuts to idle when but cuts out. It has never died in its life. As long as I drive carefully and yank my foot off the pedal when it cuts out, I don't even get the VVt timing errors- from the sudden deceleration without time to retard the VVT exhaust Actuators. The thing is that the faster I go, by just accumulating velocity in this manner, there's a speed limit where it cuts out so frequently that I cannot prevent the engine light and then when i try to just gasbut at this point, I get an EOC light and it cuts to idle and then I have no control over the throttle at all. I just hear the vacuum pump whine with a pitch that follows the accelerator pedal pressure. So strange. I think this is a clue. But honestly I don't know why. The only thing I can think of the could need vacuum according the the amount if gas I'm giving it is in pulling more fuel from the fuel pump or in regulating the fuel pressure. Oh, I think I said something confusing. If the engine is cutting out badly, I can rev the engine without any Problem. I given it more and more gas up high and it runs great. I can punch it and it zoomed up in RPM. The thing it CANNOT DO IS take a load. This means it's not getting gas. So I think it could be the fuel filter. I haven't changed it ever. It's got 85,000 mike's and 18 years on it. TIME TO CHANGE IT. But the gas in the tank is also a year old. So I have filters and gas treatment ready to go. I also have spark plugs, coils, a MAS, a cabin filter, I checked the engine filter and it's brand new. What am I missing? Oh, I need to know what the pin numbers are in the plug for the throttle body. I have a schematic of that connection but I don't want to go in blind. If there's an intermittent connection on the ECU, I'll need to know how to find the pin numbers on that. UNLESS, maybe I should just start with a fuel filter and gas treatment and go from there?I tried giving you more information

This is not a bad gas issue it is a electric issue period.Was the throttle body replaced ? If so did you do an adaption to the new tb?

I had upholsterer try to work on my leather seats, he did great work on a headliner but he had some personal crisis. He had my seats for 9 months, OMG he screwed Everything up. long story short., he lost all my hardware, (Deleted an hour of work here,,) Everything works but I'm afraid to turn on the seat heaters for fear that I'll blow an airbag. Is that even possible? That guy made an easy job a nightmare. Anywayy, let's assume he got the connectors right. What does it take to clear that airbag fault? Is it something I've got to take in to clear or should I be able to clear it with my ODBII, but the connection is off? I have cleared it but it comes back on a second after startup. Rather a second of it being off after the engine starts.. Dies it require a garage to clear the code, because it's protected from deletion to prevent people from hiding accidents,? Or should I be able to clear it myself? That might indicate that the connections are still wrong. I don't want to fix something that isn't broken. What do I do?If it's an electrical issue then why can I rev the engine in every way possible without a single cut out?

If you have read my opening statement I will be assisting the p2101 fault. Any other issues with the vehicle a new question must be opened. Site rules. I can assist you with your other issues but let’s deal with the p2101 issue.Thanks and I hope you understand.

I bought a VW part. The Instructions day that no learning procedure is required. IT REALLY OPERATES EXACTLY Like the old one.It drives the same tooIt idles perfectly. It's ONLY UNDER LOAD that it fails. Remember? I can accumulate speed but by bit but when it cuts out MORE, the faster I'm trying to drive.I can't get it to fail on residential streets. Look, it cannot be an electrical issue. However, if I had a picture of the throttle plug pin numbering configuration and the ECU pin numbering system, so I can test wire continuity too, by all means, Please send me this info. I'll check it out. But seriously, these garages around here are so stupid, it's traumatizing. They planted large structural bolts on my new engine pan underneath. I would not Elliminate the possibility of garbage or sugar etc in my gas tankThere's an electronic vacuum pump. If I've really worked it untill the engine stops responding, this vacuum pump white up in pitch following the throttle position just like the engine does if I haven't crashed it. The engine normally revs like a champ. IT'S ONLY UNDER GREATER ACCELERATION that the engine cuts out. Explain why you think it has to be Electrical. I thought so too until I noticed that the vacuum pump follows the accelerator. The engine follows the accelerator so long as it doesn't require any gas to speak of. And there it is. It ain't getting enough gas. It gets some, but not when it needs more. It really did start failing soon after that trip to the garage. What's in my tank?Plus the new Throttle works exactly like the old one. "It'd have to be an intermittent wire" was my first thought too and it might be. I'll check if I had the wiring. I have schematics but I can't find the device pin numbers, on the plug or socket, either one.Thank you so much for you're help. I'll get some rest. My everything hurts.

Ok listen here. I have been a 20 year master veteran VW tech. The throttle body needs to be adapted first. Second need to check for intake leaks from the MAF sensor to the throttle body and then smoke the intake manifold and make sure there is no intake leaks. if all checks out you will need to make an overlay harness from the ecu to the throttle body connector with new terminals on both ends of the harness. note if you peel the old harness tape back you will see pairs of wires twisted must be the same and constructed the same.

You've completely ignored the fact that in park or nuetral, I can rev the engine at will, leaving it at 4,000 5,000 anything, for as long as I want, without ANY issues whatsoever. If there were leaks, the idle speed would increase, right? It idles perfectly, even after it's been cutting out. It's only under LOAD that the engine cuts out, the greater the load, the more frequent the cutting out. The throttle works PERFECTLY. I'll just put the old one back on if it makes you feel better. It really hasn't made any difference. Be reasonable. It's only after the sugar or crap clogs the filter, that the engine cuts out. It's SUPER DIFFICULT to get it to show the "throttle actuator motor range/control/performance loss" error code. I've literally got to drive it first to get the fuel rate to grab enough stuff, then it cuts out, and then I've got to floor it while it's just idling. Then, and only then does the ECU figure, "hey, the sensors say the pedal's to the metal but there's no RPM or fuel consumption, there's some, CAUSAL disconnect, between the throttle position and the engine RPM and MAS readings etc". I guess that does take awhile, ha ha. Only then I get that code but I thought it might be the throttle itself. VW says that these come pre-calibrated, no learning procedure required. There is no calibration procedure on this unit. It's fitment chart is one engine the W8, for 3 years. Sure, on a throttle for the 1.8 L, you'll have a calibration. Ask VW, consult the service manual. No calibration required if bought from OEM source, and there is no other source, but I could be wrong. It does say Bosch on it. I looked for it on the Bosch website but I couldn't find it. Anyway, No calibration required, but if you find a procedure for this engine and everyone who sells this throttle is wrong, please let me know. OK? HEY Right, just look up the part on any one site like VWPARTSSOURCE.COM, it tells you there, "no calibration required" Anyway, it drives and fails EXACTLY the same as with the old one, It idles perfectly, and first thing out of the driveway, I floor it and it goes like crazy, and that's it. I've got to shut it off and start it later. Then I drive more carefully, but the point is made. END OF STORY. Fuel supply Problem. But if you can find the pin numbers in the throttle plug, I'll back check them. OK? If you can tell me how the socket in the ECU is numbered, I can follow the schematic a guy sent me and I can check wire continuity too. Just curious, in your long career, How many throttles have you calibrated on W8 engines? This reminds me of all those guys that told me it was IMPOSSIBLE to fix those VVT wires, a rat ate, to the hairy wires on the nub. They had SO MUCH EXPERIENCE blah blah, my God they went on.. I went home and figured out how to fix them, did it and they are FIXED, using silver epoxy. It looks ugly, but all the Electronic specs are spot on, no kidding, and then it idled perfectly as before. Screw those guys. If the VVT actuators weren't discontinued, they would have talked me into a multi-thousand dollar repair. Crooks. They could very well We'll find out soon if the main problem is the filter and tank. Next might be the fuel pressure regulator but there are codes for that. Mmm Don't know. We'll go from there. I really appreciate your help. I had to admit you have a point. That tube for example 07D 129 482 . What does that do? I'll replace the MAS and I've long thought there was a gap between the MAS and the adjacent tube, but it was the intake side, so...I got the O ring. We'll see. So I'm on the same page. I just drove it more and made more observations and gave it more thought. This is a true story my father had have created this problem to get me back. Anyway, I think I agreed with everything you said Except the calibration. I will take the manifold off and fix things so I'll replace the plugs, the MAS, and many things as you said. With pin numbers, and time, we will find please find out what the tube is Find out what that tube is for, and see if you can get the pin numbers on the plug and ECU do I can check everything. If it runs perfectly, after the tank is cleaned, well, I still would like to know, because it could be necessary, if not now, later. I don't want to poke around blindly. The schematic is simple but if I don't know how the actual objects have their pins numbered, the schematic does me little good.. I could easily screw something serious up. Thank you again in advance and in what you wrote. I agree. I'm getting the tank cleaned, new filter first. Your homework is to figure out what the tube is for, and how to number the pins on the throttle and ECU so they match up and I don't royally ruin something very important. Hey, thanks for everything.

Today, I finally felt well enough to take a shower, and drive the car with the scanner showing live readings. I also looked at my NEW MAS. IT REALLY DOES LOOK DIFFERENT THAN WHAT I SAW IN MY OKD ONE. I guess it just fell apart a little. I put the throttle position, the MAS, and RPM and various others to try. The throttle position looks good. However, once the EPC light comes on it stops the throttle. straight nothing. I began to question the sending unit. Then I realized I didn't have to. I noticed that when the engine cuts, the MAS falls FIRST, the throttle follows very closely BEHIND. SO, you were right about the MAS, We both were because I bought the new one a god while ago. I felt too bad to open the box. Today, I look back on last month and I thought I was dying. Wow, all zi had was a little respiratory infection, I'm sure my doctor would have sent me home with nothing, if I had the strength to leave the house. I couldn't even take a shower for 3 weeks. I've been sick a lit in my life but that's the worst ANYWAY, I think a new fuel filter won't hurt and new gas. I WAS WRONG, I think. It's at least partially the MAS and maybe that's most of it but you were definitely correct about some vacuum leakage, but not a whole lot, but yeah, I'm definitely planning on fixing that as much as I can. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again. Sorry for writing like a maniac last night. I had so much caffeine to get me back on my feet. But instead I stayed off my feet and wrote. It's bad but it's happened before after recovering, caffeine, writing like a maniac. I'm really sorry.

no biggie !!

I took my car in, like I told you, right? I didn't ask for a diagnosis, but they did one, no prob, but let me copy you the email he sent. Please tell me what you think of this and compare it to my current take that my MAS is falling apart inside, but I have no proof that the causal chain is comprehensive. There may always be that the appearance of the MAS diving just a fraction of a second before the throttle shows a closure. I don't know. OK, Here is his text: "Hey how you doing this is Stanley the mechanic from Kwik Kar I’m calling to inform you that I had did a diagnostics on your vehicle and the outcome of the diagnostics was that PCM was changed or replaced your ECM which is your electrical control module is no good and it needs to be replaced you also have a camshaft position sensor that also needs to be replaced." I know the camshaft error is not correct. He didn't even read the code. The code is the timing error caused by the sudden crash not giving the valve timing, or anything, to adjust to the sudden change. That's how engines are today. Anyway, What do you think about the whole thing including his camshaft position...? I'm going to have to fetch my book. I don't remember an ECM. I know there's no PCM. There's a EPC. Ha ha, these acronyms, plus his spelling,,, just ignore the spelling. We all know my typing sucks too. What to you think? He may be right, I guess but....I need your take on this. Thank you very much again.

Only when the e6 is warm, I'll get what I call a "EPC Throttle crash" because as soon as it goes unresponsive, the EOC light and the triangular traction loss light comes on and the throttle pedal only makes that unknown, but presumably the vacuum pump, electric motor whine up in pitch. I'm assuming that if the MAS signals and Throttle signals are haywire, it locks down the throttle to avoid a runaway engine, inf it can happen it will, so they probably prevented this with the "EPC Throttle crash". Otherwise, when I'm driving looking at the live data, the MAS "appears" to dive a fraction of a second before the throttle (just the throttle) goes down for just that split second and I can ease up the gas again and it got me to the shop, with 1 or 2 EPC throttle lock downs, requiring a clearing of codes. I have to admit that I'm assuming a lot here, but I know the camshaft code he's talking about says the one cam but usually both exhaust cams show an error timing too advanced. That's obviously due to the crashes being far too fast for the VVT Actuators vto move, besides, those are lead by changes in the throttle pedal. I know because if I lift my foot very quickly each time it drops out, I get no codes. This is that delay when you give it gas. You remember carburetor days when there was no delay. That delay is for the ECU (or PMS, EMU or whatnot) to make the proper adjustments for maximum efficiency and power. (I have an active Imagination.) Tell me if you think it's automatically a n ECU failure because his scanner says, ...we don't know what it says, do we? I think I may have answered my question. Still, I want to read it from your point of view because I respect it. Thank you so much, again.

What are the codes stored ?

we need the actual codes. We also need the bigger picture to give the codes a context in the chain of cause and effect. I tried to get that by watching the live data graph while I drove. I should have recorded that and sent it. A bad MAS can cause a chain of errors to appear. A bad ECM, for example, should cause a lot of useless codes to appear if any at all. Don't all the codes come from the ECM. If that's suspect then so are all the codes. What ever happened to diagnosis by observation and thought? Just a rhetorical question. Thanks again. You hit the nail on the head.One more thing. I know he's made a stupid inference from codes p0011 and 0021 and I forgot the intake ones, they are much more rare. But if I yank my foot off the gas when the engine cuts, (I gotta be quick) those codes don't show up. However, I'm not perfect, so the longer I try this, the more certain that I'll get those anyway. There was NO time for them to move, so these come as a consequence. They are not FAILURE CODES, as another garage insisted. So many scanners, so many idiots with scanners.

Not to be mean I need the codes?

THEY HAVEN'T TOLD ME. I'VE ASKED. NO REPLY. They're closed on Sunday and MLK day. In the US. That's Martin Luther King day. I HAVE mentioned that I get P0011, P0021, every garage gives me a different IDIOTIC diagnosis based upon which word their tiny brains comprehen about those codes, ignoring the entire point of it. It a timing over advanced error on the exhaust cam by the VVT actuators.. Obviously, this is a consequence of the throttle cuts. caused by the sudden engine cut out to idle while my foot is on the gas. This give the actuators 0.000 seconds to actuate for deceleration, so of course they will be over advanced. One garage insisted that my VVT Actuators were all bad and needed replacement. Idiots. There are codes for actuator FAILURE like P0013. I had that once when a rat ate the wire. It actually ran pretty well like that but it idled poorly. So as soon as I could, I fixed the wire, the codes disappeared and the engine idles like a dream. These bastards based everything off the same code I'm %90 certain. If the ECM were bad, How'd I drive it there? Where'd the codes come from? A redundant ECM hidden near the "black box"? . He's just another idiot, and I will give you the "Bad ECM" code when he answers my text. It's really nice that you're interested. Thank you in any case. I always had to work on MLK, so we'll hope. ok?

Before any further I do need these codes . Is another code causing the p2101 ? You do not know and I do not know. Its possible that your cam adjuster wiring repair was not successful. I cannot continue until i get the codes and continue. Note depending of what codes are stored and it's dependent of where the premium service may be needed. I hope you understand where I am coming from because I cannot see and be right in front of the vehicle to really access the entire issue which may be compounded.

There's no 2101 The car is at the shop so I cannot be there either. They are there. They read 0011 on Friday, and I connected great with it and watched the MAS and Throttle and timing live as I drove. THEY CANNOT COMMUNICATE WITH IT ANY LONGER. They broke it. That's what they meant by "the ECM is broke". Does that help? HINT: The MAS broke. I watched it lead the failures live. But now that they broke my car, It's dead.There are no codes. That's the Problem. They said they're calling in a VW expert tomorrow. I said, "I DID NOT ASK for a Diagnosis from you guys. Just a fuel filter change and an oil change", (using my Bosch filters I brought). Now that they broke it, I guess they feel compelled to bring in some specialist. I can't believe those guys. I was just telling the guy that drove me home that I've gotten 4 different idiotic diagnosis' from the same codes 0011, 0021, error codes. Those are consequential blah blah. it's dead now. I am as much in the dark as you are, if not more. Since you're an expert. I do have a spare ECM. I bet they broke the connector. I can't fix that. So, is it ok if we just be patient?I'm upset that the kwicky oil change place even tried to diagnose the car !!!!!

You want a rating to get rid of me. I'm sorry. I think I will do that. You deserve something. I text my thoughts. With a broken MAS and now a dead ECM. What can YOU do? You need codes. If the Problem doesn't involve codes, like a plastic bag caught in the grill that sometimes blocks the air, what can you do but suggest that I take it off again and look, which I think you did and I was planning to do anyway. I've got the same frustrations. Is it funny or sad that they tell me my camshaft sensor is bad. Then he tells me the ECM is bad without telling me that they ruined its connectivity themselves, even though I didn't ask for a diagnosis. I've got so many diagnosis' and no 2 are the same. But now "The ECM is bad". "What code is that?" I ask "It won't communicate any more". He writes. "You mean y'all broke it." No comment from him. Just like one would expect of humans. My new diagnosis is that I have a plastic bag caught in my grill. Removing that intake funnel didn't fix it because the bag is just stuck to the grill. Rev the engine and it gets sucked in. Hey, that's very consistent with my live data streams observation that the MAS leads the crashes. It's actually telling the truth. There's suddenly no air. It does jump around like crazy, the MAS signal. And I can drive at first, then it starts cutting out. That's the time it takes the bag to get into an air flow that pulls it in. What do you think? Not every Problem has a code. I'm sure I wouldn't be the first car stopped by a plastic bag. It stops turtles and whales. It's only fair. The pedal sender signal is the same as the throttle signal right? Just a thought. Hey, How do you unclip the coil cable to get the coils off the plugs? To change spark plugs. I got some NGK Ruthenium ones awhile back. Just didn't want to do it in the middle of a serious diagnosis. I'm curious what they look like. I've got to pull the manifold off again to check everything again. Do you use a screwdriver to pry that bar up? Or push? I really don't want to break it. I guess it depends how bad the shop screwed up my car. Let's just assume they changed the settings accidentally. At least if you tell me how not to break those connectors, you'd be giving me valuable information. I had a lot to say but I decided it was worthless speculation. You're welcome. Later. Plastic bag? What would happen if the MAS was broken? It sometimes just says "Hey, no air here!" The injectors would shut off, the throttle would .....try to maintain an idle and wait? What if the sender is...you know, those signals never go straight down. They slope down. If the signal actually lost continuity, open circuit, would the scanner still read in pulses that may be so far between even when tracking only those 2, that it forms a slope? I mean, just because it didn't appear to be a sudden open circuit, it doesn't mean that it wasn't, right? So then everything is still suspect, from plastic bags to MAS to sender to throttle, even a sudden loss of fuel pressure that isn't being reported, right? So this leaves us at square one, codes or no codes. If the fuel pressure is not being monitored correctly, then there could either be a wire or ECM fault, or connector most likely? I'll have to see where that is. Looks like, realistically, we can't rely on codes, like every other idiot with a scanner does. You wouldn't believe all the crap I've been told, just from those same codes, the timing too advanced on the exhaust, the symptom, not the cause. It almost seems like you're becoming a code addict, huh? ha ha. I'm kidding. Let me know about the connectors and some educated guesses that don't involve codes. We aren't getting useful codes. Accept it. Confirm some guesses. Deny them. Think with your brains. I know it's hard but... give it a shot. If I had good, informative codes, why would I need you? Think about like 30 years ago.

Think about it like you were diagnosing a complex car 30 years ago, I mean. But seriously, if I had codes, why would I need you? I'm smarter than every shop I've seen. I've got a 165 IQ in a retarded world, but my body is broken and always was, past 24 or so. I don't have any experience with modern cars. I visualize how a car of that era MUST be. You've got vastly more data to visualize with. I honestly don't know how anyone can be so stupid as the diagnosis' I've got from shops. They'd literally have to be retarded. Like this guy who said my camshaft position sensor was bad. Or the guy that told me and insisted that my VVT actuators were bad needed replacing and that was that. All because of a code P0011. They didn't even start the car, apparently. If they did, and noticed the engine light was off and still said that, they seriously would be retarded. You are very smart. I've heard my thoughts. I want to hear yours.

I do believe this you do have issues with the VVT's and the control valves. done so many replacements. Keep in mind the W8 engine is a diamond in the rough when operating great but when they have this issue motor needs to be removed and do all 4 adjusters, both control valves and chain . VERY EXPENSIVE!!!

Those replacements were probably all unnecessary. My car runs great now because I fixed the VVT wires, even the one that had no wires to connect to. A POOR connection is WORSE than NO CONNECTION AT ALL. I remembered that after the rat ate my wires, the car ran fine. Different slightly. Not DEAD. A POOR CONNECTION IS WORSE THAN NONE AT ALL. I fixed that poor splice and it's running like a champ. I still need to go in and do the things to satisfy myself and to out in new plugs. How do you get those connectors off the coils? I cannot find a picture of how they operate and trial and error doesn't suit this situation. Could you tell me if find a picture to help? I've just taught you how to diagnose the Problem it if it's already known to be bad, 99.9% if the time it will be the connection. I've seen wires with what look like breaks in the rubber covering a the way down. Those cables inside are not large at all. I can't remember the guage but really thin. A bad connection is worse than just cutting them out. Then you can desire them. If the wires break at the nub, silver epoxy is a solid connection. I used a zip tie around the little post and ran the new wires underneath and through that, so the wires come out above whatever is left. I can give you details if you're interested, but it sounds like the people are already ripped off and the Actuators are discontinued because of service managers who liked to throw those away at the drop of a hat. They can be fixed without cracking open the engine even if the failure code is what you see. You're not a slave of the car's computer. I found my solutions because I actually tried. That's something that seems rare these days. I admit my spliced sucked, ha ha. I've never tried those "easy splicers" before. I needed to rosin the wires first, tie them together neatly so the splicer shrimp wrap and sealer aspects of those things can be helpful without ruining the splice. Or just go back to the old fashioned way, that's what I did, ha ha. Stick with what works. I had a hard time working behind the engine in my condition. My back is all screwed up as are my muscles. I'm in terrible pain all day. So I know zi got tired that day I found that iffy splice and I reheated the solder and the code went away, all my checks passed. But it was not good enough. I'm embarrassed that I think I just went into denial a bit. I just didn't have the strength to even get all my gear and do it over. The code disappeared, then why was it on my to-do list? Because somewhere in me I knew that was a bad connection. But I knew the car ran great without any VVT Actuators on that side too. Put those together and I had to just cut that splice. And it ran great. Idled bad but.. it proved the point. I'll do the others over too. Rosin. Old fashioned splices covered by those easy splicers for their sealing and protection. I'm exhausted. Please tell me how to replace my plugs without ruining those connectors. There's always a trick to do things on VWs, well, any car. Thank you. I think we both learned a lot. That's how it should be. I got to crash. later

I understand you love your vehicle but this is a 1 question one answer site. Now that you are asking other questions. I tried to help out and going out of my way but this is where I have to stop and notify you if you want other questions that you have you need to open another question from the site. You can request me but this needs to be done. I hope you understand.

1 question, 1 answer. What was your answer to my first question?

Hello, it appears that you opted your original expert out. In most cases, when I see a session like this run as long as it has, I will typically not pick up on it. What I'm going to say first is that Wolfgang is correct in that data using a proper scan tool is necessary. Not vague suggestions from a shop with unknown VW experience, not generic P-codes from a regular OBD2 scanner. Data is everything, and the equipment and the skill of the person using said equipment is the key to a proper diagnosis. I also have 30+ years of experience with these cars, and have owned my own Euro/VW independent shop for half of that. I'm happy to pick this up, or you can opt me out also, and opt Wolfgang back in, but I will say that neither of us will be able to help without good information in terms of a complete engine scan using VCDS or other dedicated VW scan tool, and if you're doing your own work, then it's very likely that the use of a digital multimeter and familiarity with circuit testing will also be necessary. Please let me know how you would like to proceed.

I, that is, myself, DO have the proper scan tool. YOU only read the part where I took my car in for an oil change and the shop started telling me a bunch of crazy stuff. I've fixed my car myself, no thanks to shitheads like you and Wolfgang who blame VVT Actuators for everything, and recommend tearing the engine apart to replace them all. I fixed the wiring, everything is back to normal. People like you who've been ripping off your customers for decades have no business offering idiotiic advice that I couldn't follow if I wanted to because YOU PEOPLE have depleted the WORLDWIDE stock of VVT Actuators. If only I had a box of all those perfectly good VVT Actuators. Then I'd be selling them to those who truly need them. Besides, the MAS was broken, I told him that. He didn't care.