My check engine light, cruise control light and traction ...

Hi! Welcome to JustAnswer. Thank you for contacting us for assistance with your vehicle. I'm Ron. I will be happy to assist you with your question. May I ask to whom I have the pleasure of speaking with today?

JoAnne

Hi JoAnne. Nice to see you today! I'm sorry to hear you are having this problem. I know this can be frustrating. Please give me one moment to type out some information for you. Sit tight one minute... I'll be right back! Thanks for holding, JoAnne. When the Check Engine light comes on, the Cruise and Trac lights are also set, which turns these systems off. This is a self-preservation mechanism, in case the reason the Check Engine Light is on can harm or effect the Cruise and Trac systems. So- fix the reason why the Engine Light is on, and the Cruise and Trac systems will come back online. When the Check Engine light comes on, this is the on-board computer's way of telling you it sees a problem in one of the monitored systems. Unfortunately, there are literally 100's of parts and sensors monitored in various systems, and to take a "guess" as to which part/sensor in which system is faulty, is virtually impossible. However, if you are not experiencing any drivability issues such as skipping, stalling, shifting problems, etc, then more than likely, the problem is going to lie in the EVAP (emissions control/recovery) system. Very commonly, this could be a faulty, loose or missing fuel cap or even putting fuel in while the vehicle is running can set the light. Check the underside of the fuel cap for any cracks or signs of defects that may keep the cap from sealing correctly. If there are any doubts about the inspection of the cap, replace it. Keep in mind, you will need a cap that meets OE Specs. Those "universal" or "locking" fuel caps sold at after market parts stores do not meet OE specs, and will not seal the system correctly. Check the top of the fuel filler neck for any signs of damage or debris. Check under the vehicle, around the rear areas of the vehicle, looking for any vacuum lines that have dry-rot cracks, holes or loose/missing connections. If these all check out, then the best thing to do at this point is to have the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (aka "p-codes") read from the on-board computer. These p-codes are what is used as a "starting point" for the diagnosis and will tell which part/sensor, in which system, has the fault. Every single Mechanic's first course of action will be to obtain the p-codes. It's standard diagnostic procedure. Once you get these p-codes you can more accurately and efficiently diagnose the problem and then make the correct repair. You can have these p-codes read **<u>FREE</u>** (except in California) at any local "big chain" part store (ie. AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advanced, etc).

Okay I've done the code reader and it brings up all codes for crankshaft position sensors

Ok, great! Can I have the actual "p-codes" that were scanned, JoAnne?

I cant remember them I'll have to get a code reader and do them again and send them to you

That would definitely help us out a ton, JoAnne. The code readers are usually just 'generic'. So with the actual p-code, I can give Subaru-specific possible causes for them.

okay

Excellent! I'll be here when you're ready, JoAnne!

thank you

You're welcome, JoAnne!

Thank you again for choosing Just Answer for your questions. I hope I was able to answer your question to your satisfaction. If you have any follow up questions please feel free to hit the "Reply" button below. Please feel free to request me in the future for any additional questions you may have. I hope this all works out well for you! Have a great day, JoAnne!