Q: Q: No start, no crank

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My car will not even crank. I have tested the starter and it's getting power but the ignition wire to the top is not getting power when the key is in the crank position.
I have replaced the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch and the actuator pin. I can jump the starter by jumping the 10 and 11 pin in the starter relay in the fuse box.

What else could be wrong?

My car has 138000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Check to see if there are any stored diagnostic trouble codes. Be sure you have a fully, 100% charged battery that passes a load test. Confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. If the warning light is on, to temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power AND voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power, OR a large voltage drop is measured in the circuit, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault but the exact location of the fault cannot be determined until the entire circuit is traced. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses (and possibly fusible links), relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Keep in mind, the issue could be due to a voltage drop and not necessarily a clean wire break or an open. Regardless of the underlying cause, if you request a no start diagnostic the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you promptly. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

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