Q: No check engine light, stalling while driving

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Was stalling out previously at a complete stop, oil pressure gauge would go to 0. Cleaned throttle body and sensors out and pressure gauge went back to normal but now it's stalling in drive while moving.No check engine light and diagnostic test didn't catch anything so it's not a sensor. once it stalls, it won't start right back up, but give it a few minutes and it will start. Thanks

My car has 90000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Hi There, It sounds like you may have a dirty or failing idle air control valve causing your engine idle to fluctuate and eventually stall. The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

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Hello, It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. In some cases this may not always set the check engine light off when this is dirty. The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly.

The other possibility may be a faulty ignition coil which may cause it to not want to start back up immediately. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This type of temperature cycling happens because every time you shut the engine off, the fan stops running, the coolant stops flowing and the temperature under the hood rises. Every time you start the engine again the coolant flows, the fans turn on, and the temperature drops. When this heat dissipates and is absorbed under the hood, it is trapped causing this cycling effect. In either case of the engine shutting down, this will cause the oil pressure gauge to read 0 when the engine is not running and therefore not creating any oil pressure. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

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