Violet shaking 50mph and above violent

Hello, I'll be happy to help you out with this, and sorry to hear you're having this trouble. Has the vibration been there since the bent rim or did it go away for a while and now it's back?

No not since the rim which was in September 2020 I want to say I started noticing it Early December 2020

Ok, that's good. And you had the tires balanced recently and that did not help it at all correct?

I've had the tires balanced several times including just yesterday

Yeah, certainly not them then, that's good. Do you ever notice any clunking or vibration, maybe less intense, during acceleration?

clunking noise like something is loose on the same side the replacement rim is

Ok, is that the drivers or passenger side?

Passenger frontThe replacement rim is also slightly bigger than the rest1/2 inch bigger

Ok, so there are a couple of things we can check out given those symptoms. The pothole may not have destroyed a suspension component but it could have either bent something that sped up the wear or just sped up the wear with that impact. The components that need checked for are the ball joints and the control arm bushings. These are fairly easy to check if you take the tire off you can check the bushings on the control arm, just put a large screwdriver or prybar next to them and push a little bit where they mount to the body of the car. The ball joints can be tested with the wheel on and the car jacked up, try to lift up on the tire and see if the wheel has movement in it. A visual inspection is good as well to make sure the grease isn't leaking out and causing excessive play. Is the replacement wheel on the front or rear right now?

Front

Ok, at minimum I would recommend rotating it to the rear. The reason is that in the short term, being that it is close to the factory size, it's ok, but in the long term, that can lead to early wear and failure of the transmission, as it's constantly have to compensate for that wheel turning slightly slower than the one on the other side of the front. If you rotate it to the rear then it's not connected to the drive axle/transmission.

OkI was given advice that the car needing a tune up could be causing the violent shaking how do you feel about that? Could that be the cause?

The other part we want to check is the engine mounts. They're what hold the engine to the subframe. They can wear out and then the engine will move excessively, which can also cause vibrations and unwanted movement and clunking on acceleration. Again, a visual inspection of the rubber on the mount should e sufficient. Just make sure the bolts are tight and the rubber isn't cracked or torn. Is the check engine light on?

No lights are on

Ok, then a tune up won't be the cause. I asked that in case we were getting misfire codes. If we were then yeah, it could have been plugs or a coil or something of that nature that a tune up could fix. Otherwise it's going to be suspension or mount related. Not to deter you from getting a tune up haha, if it's due for anything, always good to get that done.

Another thing I'd like to add is if I take my foot off the gas the car stops shaking does this help the diagnosis further?

Yeah, so there are several suspension components that will vibrate under a load and not once the throttle is released. These have been known to have issues with the motor mounts causing this condition so I would suspect them initially. How many miles do you have on the Mazda?

Around 202000

You can also test the mounts, very very carefully, by torque braking the car, are you familiar with what that means?

I'm not familiar with thatI'm here for advice before taking it to a shop just so I know what's going on mechanics no pun intended like to get over on females if you know what I meanI'm thinking the clunking noise and the violent shaking are unrelated but they both need to be tended to

Oh nice! I love seeing cars over that 200k mark. Torque braking is where you would open the hood and have someone watch the engine movement, while another person, you or someone else, is in the car. You put the parking brake on, and hold your foot firmly on the brake pedal, then shift it into drive. You'll use both feet, one always on the brake, and with the other you'll give it some gas. That puts a load on the engine, and the engine will kind of lurch a little bit. Some movement is normal, but excessive movement is 100% the mounts. If you'd like you could video this and then send the video to me. I certainly understand, you're smart to do so. Mechanics, myself being one, as a whole get a bad rap, and sadly it's not always undeserved. I wish it wasn't the case, but there are plenty of bad ones just like every other profession.

Can we do that tomorrow? My car isn't here right now, my husband drove it to work

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFTxfxfEeX0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFTxfxfEeX0) Yep of course. That's a video on checking the mounts including torque/power braking. When you get the video just send it to my personal google drive box here: [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HUHrAqv4\_c-TnH67bApURbcF0qJlb6Cy?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HUHrAqv4_c-TnH67bApURbcF0qJlb6Cy?usp=sharing)

I love my car other than these issues I've never had any major problems

About the only other thing would be if the front strut mounts are pretty worn. That clunk can be those as well. The vibration is unlikely to be those, but not impossible. Did it kind of happen all at once or has it been getting worse and worse?

The clunking been there longer I wanna say right before hitting the pothole or shortly after, the shaking started a few months later

Gotcha. Well if those components listed get checked out you should be able to get rid of both. Has this helped out? Just let me know if you have anything else you'd like to know, and send me that video if you get a chance!