The engine light went on in my car on Monday I took it to autozone and they gave me a emission code on Thursday my car wouldn't start it didn't crank but everything else still worked it eventually started but obviously something is wrong what should I do no warranty
My car has 16200 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
|Check Engine Light is on Inspection||$94.99 - $114.99||Get a Quote|
|Battery is dead Inspection||$94.99 - $114.99||Get a Quote|
|Neutral Safety Switch Replacement||$110.75 - $1200.55||Get a Quote|
|Starter Replacement||$169.22 - $1153.49||Get a Quote|
|Car is not starting Inspection||$94.99 - $114.99||Get a Quote|
Most emission codes will not result in a no crank condition. Once the cause of the no crank/no start fault is repaired though, you should still request a check engine light diagnostic so that the responding certified mechanic can find and repair the emission related fault.
As far as the no crank condition, be sure you have a fully, 100% charged battery that passes a load test. Confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. If the warning light is on, to temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power, or a large voltage drop is measured, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. Note that starters can and sometimes do develop intermittent faults due to bad spots on the armature. The bottom line is if there is battery voltage to the starter (and no excessive voltage drop) and yet the starter doesn’t work, it’s dead. To obtain a conclusive diagnostic, and repair of the no crank condition, please request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
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