Second opinion] I'm trying to figure out if I have a blow...

File attached (VZ23GTT)

Hello my name is \*\*\*\*\* \*\*\*\*\* I would like to assist you with your Honda main fuse. I can’t tell by the picture on your main fuse if you could get a clearer picture I’ll look at it closer. Do you have a meter? What issue are you having with your car?

It does look like number 1 on the fuse is blown but would still like to see a better picture to make sure.

Okay I'll try and take a better picture. My car lights work but engine won't crank over. I was able to drive it 3 days ago and after shutting it off I tried to drive it a minute later and the engine wouldn't crank but lights worked. I had the car sitting for months so the battery died. I had to keep charging it and taking it out. Finally replaced the battery and the car still wouldn't start. I noticed the negative is a little loose. Could this cause no crank?

If the negative is loose it can cause no crank I would try to move the negative cable around and try starting it. Do you hear a click or nothing at all when you try to start it?

Okay I'll post a new one in a couple or minutes . Would a loose cable or blown fuse cause the alarm to not be triggered?I attached the 100 fuse to my millimeter, set it on the horseshoe and connected to the terminals. The fuse read 0?

It read 0 not OL then the fuse is good. Yes loose negative cable could cause that.Will the battery terminal not tighten any more?

The negative screw is as tight as it can be, the two brackets are pressed together, but I'm able to pull the negative with just a little bit of effort

A temporary fix if you got a screw or nail can put inside the terminal then tighten it down. Should make it have a tight connection then.

I took my millimeter and put one connection on the battery and grounded one. I had someone turn the engine and just heard a click by the fuse box and that's it. The battery read 0 when this happened

The meter is on voltageIs that after tightening the terminal

I was told to put the red on the 4-5 terminal and black on the ground? To test the relay?

What’s the year make model and engine size and I’ll look up the diagram

2008 honda civic lx 1.8

you should have power at 2 of starter relay terminals I can send you the wire diagram if you want it or you can remove relay and check for the power on 2 pins of relay number 2 and 3 and your correct on how to test with meter

Most likely if you have the battery terminal right and you hear a click it’s the starter trying to engage. I would check for power at the starter here’s the diagram I had to send 2 pictures.

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Okay thank you. Looks like the relay is under my dash. Should I remove it to test it with a multimeter?

then try to crank the engine you should have 1 constant power and 1 that comes and goes with the turning of the key

When I crank the engine where do i put the multimeter points or how do I check for the constant power? Sorry for the amateur questions

The red leadOn the terminal of the relay you want to test put the black lead on the ground you can use the door striker for your ground our ground up up under the dash. I could sendYou pictures in a few I’m driving right nowYour testing at the starter relay With the relay removed

Okay thank you, \*\*\*\*\* \*\*\*\*\* be helpful.

Sorry about the delay I just got home the 2 spots I marked should have power when the starter relay is removed so you would put the red lead on your meter on the pin after starter relay is removed the black lead you can put on a metal bar under dash or I use the metal piece were the door shuts and latches onto is a good ground. I would test all 4 of the terminals after relay is removed you should have constant 12v on 1 and when you turn the key you should have 12v come and go when you turn the key. I’m going to send you the location of the relay if you haven’t found it yet. I can do a phone call tomorrow to walk you thru the steps a lot better.