Car has had ROUGH IDLE (500 - 300RPM & surging) after warming up while STOPPED and IN GEAR ONLY for 2 years (entire ownership). Smoother when tank is full or while on an incline. Completely gone when in motion.
Drove 15 miles with fuel light on. Stopped and filled the tank. Drove normally for 15 minutes in traffic. Got up to freeway speeds above 60mph for 5 minutes. As soon as speed decreased after exiting and coming to a stop light, RPM's DROPPED and engine STALLED.
Since incident, car will reliably start (cold or warm) in a couple cranks (occasionally with a pump from the gas pedal) but then IMMEDIATELY STALL or struggle at as low as 50-100 RPM for a few seconds before STALLING. Engine will stay running with throttle (sensitive) but STALL as soon as released. This method can FORCE the car to drive with LACK OF POWER and STALLING during rapid deceleration.
INTAKE/TB CLEANED, IAC, MAF, PLUGS & WIRES BY MITS.
My car has 160000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
I wouldn’t put a fuel pump on it just yet. There are a number of other possible faults. The first thing I would check for is air leaks. Any air that can get into the engine without passing through the Air Flow Meter will lean out the mixture and cause a problem like you are describing. Check all the rubber parts and vacuum hoses for good fit and condition. As for the fuel pump, A pressure test will tell the story on that and while you are doing that I would want to take a sample of the fuel to check for water contamination. That’s easily done by pumping some of the fuel into a clean jar and letting it settle for about half an hour. Any water in the fuel will settle to the bottom. If you don’t have the equipment for that, you can have that checked by contacting Your Mechanic.They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your stalling Mitsubishi and let you know what it will take to solve your problem.
Our certified mechanics come to you ・Backed by 12-month, 12,000-mile guarantee・Fair and transparent pricing