Skip the auto shop - Our mechanics make house calls

Q: My BMW M6 is making odd noises in either the transmission or differential

asked by on

Hi, thanks for writing in. I tried doing a burnout the other day and since this car has plenty of power to do so, I went a head and turned off all the electronic assist options, pressed the M button, and stood on the brake while hammering down the gas pedal.

I thought this is how its done, but as it turns out. It is not.

As I pressed the brake pedal and tried to gas up, the wheels didnt spin but the RPM gauge went up for a second or two and I smelt a STRONG odor which reminded me of a burning clutch smell.

From there, I'm seeing these issues: - Low tone, grinding noise at under 10 mph, and especially when I'm turning sharp. (sounds like its coming from the rear dif) - Shifts from gear to gear are more abrupt and a bit aggressive (like you're hitting a hear against each another) - Also when at speed, usually above 40 mph and you place it into neutral, place it back into drive and there's a brief whining noise as the rpm needle catches up with the transmission.

Though at highway speeds, it drives fine.

My car has 45000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

A: Hi, thanks for writing in. Almost certainly...

Hi, thanks for writing in. Almost certainly, what you were smelling was the clutch as you suspect. And, both the clutch and the limited slip mechanism in the differential may be damaged. The 2006 M6 Sequential Manual Gearbox ("automatic") is a very complex mechanism managing tremendous power in a heavy vehicle, and the software may not have adequately protected the clutch, gearbox and differential during your aggressive "burnouts", given the power of the V10. I recommend having your BMW dealer or service center thoroughly inspect the clutch, gearbox and differential for damage.

Was this answer helpful?

Need advice from certified mechanic? Get help now!

Over 1000 mechanics are ready to answer your question.
The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details

Ask a Mechanic
(100% Free)

Have a car question? Get free advice from our top-rated mechanics.

Ask A Mechanic
Over 10,000 questions answered!

Get an instant quote for your car

Our certified mechanics come to you ・Backed by 12-month, 12,000-mile guarantee・Fair and transparent pricing

Get a quote

What others are asking

Q: Ecu problem wanting to make sure

You need to have some of the codes like the first three diagnosed using the proper pinpoint tests until a problem is found. You may have an electrical harness short or a cut that is causing all the codes. Only...

Q: Periodically vehicle runs rough at idle.

Hi there. Most of the codes that are coming on are for a misfire on cylinder number 3. Check the spark plug and wire on cylinder 3 and see if you are getting a good spark. Then check the fuel...

Q: The gas cap on my car broke off. (The black knob you use to screw in the gas cap.) The gas cap is stuck securely in the fuel neck. How can I remove it?

Hi there. To remove the gas cap that broke off, get a pair of needle nose pliers and use it to remove the gas cap. Try to locate a part of the gas cap that you can grab with the...

Related articles

Rules of the Road For Iowa Drivers
Driving on the roads requires knowledge of the rules, many of which are based on common sense and courtesy. However, even though you know the rules in...
P2428 OBD-II Trouble Code: Exhaust Gas Temperature Too High Bank 1
P2428 code definition A P2428 trouble code signifies that the PCM has detected a problem in the exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit in bank 1, which subsequently contains the number one...
P2103 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High
P2103 means there is a fault with the throttle actuator control motor circuit, likely due to a defective electrical component or part.