I have a 1994 Chevy astro van I replaced the fuel filter ...

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Ok thank youNo it lost power as I was driving into my driveway before I replaced the battery and fuel filterNo thank youNo I don't want to switch to a live call

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Without knowing all of the information like the vehicle history, the components that have been tested or replaced, the results of any tests that need to be run and without being there myself looking at the vehicle, it is hard to say exactly what is going on. I can only give you a general answer, but I hope this helps. If all fuses are good but there are no codes in the computer, we will have to pinpoint what the [engine](/topics-engine-chevy/) is missing when this no start condition occurs… Spark Fuel Compression First is the fuel system. There are two way of checking the fuel system. First, there is the fuel pressure up to the fuel rail. Normally this is checked using a fuel pressure gauge. You simply hook it up to the fuel rail, turn the key on or crank it over and take a reading. Most older vehicles have a fuel pressure test port. This means you can simply screw the fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel rail with ease to check fuel pressure. If not, you can tap the fuel pressure line going to the throttle body or fuel rail (depending on your system) and take a reading that way. The newer vehicles use a fuel rail pressure sensor. It will take a pressure reading off of the fuel rail and turn it into a digital signal that the computer will see and understand. You can see this under live data in the ECM or PCM using a compatible scan tool under “live data”. The second part of the fuel system would be the injector pulse. This is the signal from the computer to the injectors to tell them when to open up to allow fuel into the engine. Normally this is tested using a tool called a noid light. You simply plug the noid light into the injector connector after disconnecting the injector connector from the fuel injector and watch it while an assistant cranks it over. It should blink if it has power and a ground signal trigger from the computer. This is a good signal. Both parts of the fuel system are very important and must be present for the car to start. Next would be the ignition system. On a standard ignition system, the secondary ignition components should be able to deliver strong bright blue spark that can jump at least a half inch of a gap while cranking the engine over. You can check this on more than one cylinder to be sure the ignition system is working normally like it should. Depending on your set up, you could have ignition wires that send the ignition to each cylinder or you could have coil over plug (which is very common). Either way, simply access the wire or coil and insert a spark tester or screw driver in place and ground the other end. Watch for night blue spark while an assistant is cranking the engine over. There is also the primary ignition system too. This is the engine speed sensor or sensors (cam or crank sensor). Some vehicles use just the crank sensor and others use both the cam and the crank sensor to produce spark. On some more complex vehicles and engines, there might be 2 or more [camshaft](/topics-camshaft-chevy/) position sensors that can affect spark. Both the primary and secondary ignition system can fail (and even intermittently) causing a no spark condition. If there is no spark while cranking, be sure to check for power to the [ignition coil](/topics-ignition-coil-chevy/) or coils with the key on and while cranking the engine over. Yes this could be a blown fuse or relay causing a no spark condition. Some vehicles or ignition systems use an ignition module as well as the coil or coils, and others are triggered directly from the engine computer but will still need a separate power source for the ignition coil(s) to work. As far as compression goes, low or no compression could be caused by base engine mechanical issues such as a broken camshaft or timing chain. You can check engine compression, remove the front timing cover and take a look at the timing marks or possibly pull the valve cover to see if there is any visual damage that you can see. Checking compression requires a compression gauge. Simply screw the tester into the [spark plug](/topics-spark-plug-chevy/) hole after removing the spark plug and crank it over to take a reading. While the compression specifications vary a bit depending on the engine, basically you want to ensure compression is relatively the same in all of the cylinders. All three of these are tested when the engine is being cranked over. A compression tester, spark tester, fuel pressure gauge and noid light are all accessible at your local auto store or online. All three tests play a very important part in diagnosing a no start condition. Be extremely careful when doing these tests. You could also see if it runs on starting fluid once you know the engine has spark. If it does, then you know you have spark and compression and you simply have a fuel delivery problem. Here is a video explaining how to check for spark and fuel on a car that cranks but does not start. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg) Glad I can help. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks and have a great day! .