My 2014 Impreza doesn't move when I put it into gear


My 2014 Impreza doesn't move when I put it into gear Mechanic's Assistant: How old is the transmission? Have you checked the brake switch? OEM, so 7 years and no Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Impreza y...

My 2014 Impreza doesn't move when I put it into gear Mechanic's Assistant: How old is the transmission? Have you checked the brake switch? OEM, so 7 years and no Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Impreza yourself? What have you tried so far? Yes, I've check the fuses, I recenly drained the oil and it was very dark. Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the Mechanic to know before I connect you? Dash lights are Hill assist, CEL, ABS, AT OIL TEMP but only when the car starts and is put into gear.. Scan tool show codes p0700, p2750,p2746

Automotive Expert
**Bradley Jordan** **Nissan**** , Subaru, and Infiniti Master Technician** **ASE Master Tech All Makes** **Factory training,Subaru,Toyota,Isuzu and Kia** **Let me take a moment to review your request.** **_You may be prompted for a phone call, this is optional as the request is automatic._**
Automotive Expert
The p0700 is the TCM requesting the mil light. The p2746 and p2750 are for the primary and secondary [speed sensor](/topics-speed-sensor/) circuits in the transmission. I have attached 2 pdf's on the codes. Not knowing your skill level, I would suggest the dealer look at it, as it may have an internal transmission failure.

I'm very mechanically inclined, I have lots of tools and I bought this verifiable to fix myself
Automotive Expert
That is great, I had to ask because we do not know your skill level. the pdf's are the diagnostic trees for the 2 codes.
Automotive Expert
**If you need more help, just follow up with your question and I can give you more information.** **it was my pleasure to help you today, exceptional service is my goal and I hope I provided** **Exceptional service for you today. Good luck with your repairs and have a wonderful day** **Thankyou** **Bradley**

Do you think, in your experience, swapping the transmission will fix this problem guaranteed? I just don't want the possibility of it still not working because of a TCM or something smaller. I assumed the series of dash lights would explain the most.
Automotive Expert
looking at the diagnostics it may have a couple of bad sensors or a wiring issue, it does not appear to be a mechanical failure.

Earlier you said it may have an internal transmission failure, what were you referring to?
Automotive Expert
That was before I read the diagnostic flow charts all the way through, it seems from the codes you have it is electrical in nature. If it was mechanical you should have more codes set.

Ok, I'll start there.
Automotive Expert
I will be around tomorrow thru the whole weekend if you have any more questions.

Sounds good!
Automotive Expert
you are welcome

I'm finally getting started, I found more wiring diagrams, on step two it says to check harness by measuring connectors and terminals. But the tcm connector is under the dash and the terminal is in the engine bay. Is there a work around?
Automotive Expert
You can go to the parts store. Get two small aligator clips and somd wire. Make your own tester wite that is long enoungh.

Not sure if you can receive pictures or not

What are your thoughts that it might be the ground wire that is being shared by the sensors?
Automotive Expert
That is something I would check for sure

Quick update, I'm at step 3 for the p2746 code. I've tried many different grounds but my multimeter is not getting a reading for any continuity at all. I'm confident im at the correct wire... any ideas? Should I reconnect the transmission harness when I do this step? There was one single time for 3 seconds, when I had the ground clipped to the negative [battery](/topics-battery/) cable (disconnected) and nothing in the positive side, the multimeter read 1.6 M ohm... almost as if it was a late response. Does any of this make sense to you?Is there a diagnostic tool I could buy they may expedite this process?
Automotive Expert
What we did in the dealership we made test leads out of old wiring connectors. I understand you do not have those laying around. but we took a female and male wire out of the big connector with the pins on the wire so we could plug a single pin into the harness. amazon has the following test lead kit, about the only tool per say out there. Outzone Automotive Test Lead Kit 92 Pieces Electrical Testers Auto Diagnostic Tools Wire Connectors Adapter Cables Set

Okay I'll look into this kit, but I believe the spare wire trick is working great. I'm just confused about the multimeter not getting a reading from this specific test.
Automotive Expert
if you are on the correct pins and it does not read the desired results in the pdf you may have a harness problem.

What is considered a good chassis groundfrom the diagnostic steps do you think I need to plug in the transmission harness? It has me testing a yellow wire with the chassis ground, seems like I'd get a ohms reading only if it was a black ground wire
Automotive Expert
any point on the engine or trans that does not have rubber gaskets and clean of paint and oil. the best place if you can reach it is the neg battery cable not the battery post,

On step 3 is everything supposed to be disconnected?? The battery, tcm and both transmission connectors???Not battery, sorry. It never mentions the battery
Automotive Expert
Let me look.
Automotive Expert
in step 3 both connectors are plugged in. you are back probing the trans connecter.

Customer attachment 2/28/2021 12:52:53 AM
Automotive Expert
NOW TO VERIFY YOUR SHORT TO GROUND UNPLUG BOTH CONNECTORS AND RETEST IT.

Customer attachment 2/28/2021 12:58:38 AM

Customer attachment 2/28/2021 12:59:17 AM

Same setup, unplugged the connectors on transmission. And now I get this reading

Customer attachment 2/28/2021 1:00:26 AM

What does this mean
Automotive Expert
WHAT IS THE READING WITH 1 LEAD DISCONNECTED

Ok, I had my battery connected and I get that reading. If I leave connectors where they are, and unplug verify both transmission connectors are unplugged, and UNPLUG the battery, my reading changes to .006
Automotive Expert
YOU NEED THE NEG CABLE ON THE BATTERY. FROM YOUR READINGS GO TO STEP 4

Ok, I reconnected both transmission harnesses, back probed the no.6 wire. I then grounded it to the negative battery cable (while connected to battery post) when I turned the ignition on it read 12.6 voltsEverything check out? Or should I keep the harnesses disconnected? If I need to disconnect, which side of the connector should I probe? Transmission side or tcm side
Automotive Expert
GO TO STEP 4, YOU ARE MORE THAN 1K OHMS. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON STEP 4

I'm on step 4. That's what I'm talking about.
Automotive Expert
on step 4 the TCM is plugged in and probe the wire in step four, you are looking for voltage.

I plugged in the TCM, I RECONNECTED both transmission connectors in the engine bay. They are they grey and orange connectors in the picture above the orange is considered "b12" in the diagnostic tree. While b12 is connected to the female (transmission) side I probed the no.6 wire. While grounding to the battery. The voltage is 12.6.
Automotive Expert
Lokk at the chart I think you need to go to step 5.

Step 5 says to use a Subaru select monitor. Is this a specialized tool I need? Or does a regular obd scanner work instead

I figured out a solution, the cvt transmission seems to run by a continuously variable belt and the speed sensors measure the spinning rate of the input and the output shaft. I'm guessing the dark trans fluid is evidence of someone using dextron fluid instead of the required CVT. Since there is low pressure, the belts go slack. Causing the belts to slip, Once shifting it jerks too hard it will break the housing cause both sensors to throw a code. I'm going to replace the transmission. I really really appreciate your help!
Automotive Expert
YOUR WELCOME, sorry for the delay the one day a week I get to sleep in is Sunday.

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