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Q: intermittent no start

asked by on

Hello & thanks for your patient willingness to help me.

  1. Battery is 2 months old, holds a charge & I don't think it's a weak alternator only because right now my Fluke meter reads 12.55+ volts & it's been sitting all day. Still, you'll know best.

  2. It started fine at dawn, before parking after driving a bit to the store. Power locks, power windows worked, unlocked just fine & when I turn the ignition key all the appropriate warning status lights do come on. Continuing through to the click & that's it. One click, nothing happens, no crank.

  3. The only thing after the 1 click that "happens" is the status lights go off, door locks don't work, even the headlights are completely dead.

  4. Next, I use my Fluke to approximate the standing voltage & it's at 12.55 immediately.

  5. After scratching my head a few minutes, I find the power locks work, & so do the headlights bright as usual.

  6. Shut off the headlights, turn the key & the exact same scenarios from #2 & #3 repeats.
    My car has an automatic transmission.

A: Follow the positive cable wires until you g...

Follow the positive cable wires until you get to the connections between the fuse box's main power fuse to make sure you are getting good connections. Connect your volt meter between the battery center post and the outside of the clamp to see if you get a voltage reading when someone tries to crank it. If you do, then remove and clean the battery terminals. If you still need help finding the loss of power then enlist a certified mechanic who can perform the necessary tests for you.

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