Q: Dying at red light, idling sensor issue??

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dying while idling, like it has a bad cold with shivers. I am told it is my idle sensor. How can I confirm before paying all this money?

My car has 105000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. To confirm, you can test the functionality of the valve by checking its electrical resistance if you have access to an ohm meter. To do this, disconnect the IAC valve, connect an ohmmeter to pins 2 and 3 of the valve. If you get a resistance value between 10-14 ohms, it indicates IAC valve is working as it should. Next, connect the ohmmeter to pins 1 and 2. If you do not get a resistance value between 10-14 ohms, the IAC valve may need to be replaced. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and replace your idle air control valve.

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