Skip the auto shop - Our mechanics make house calls

Q: Crank but no start. No spark or fuel - all quit at the same time

asked by on

My 94 explorer cranks but won't start. I have no spark and no fuel. I have replaced the ignition module with a used one as they are $100 up,and replaced the crank positioning sensor(new). I tried oreilly & napa to test the ign. module but they say they don't have the adapter for that year. I have power to the coil 4 wire plugin at the coil (test light lights on all 4 wires with the ignition on but goes out when cranking no light on all 4 wires) The fuel shuttoff is engaged so its not that. I have switched the fuel pump relay and no change. I get no spark out of the coil either. I went through a medium puddle and it just stopped and will not start, spark etc. The battery is new also.Was running fine before the water puddle. No warning signs no smells just died. I tested the amps at the crank sensor and it showed .5 but did not fluctuate so replaced it with a new one but didn't retest it. Its getting really frustrating and I can't pinpoint it. Thanks, Ron

My car has 180000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Hello. If the vehicle began to experience these issues after going through a puddle then it may very well be possible that one of the components may have shorted or malfunctioned due to moisture. First off, keep in mind that the fuel and ignition systems function independently of each other, which means that there may be more than one issue that is cutting off power to each of them.

If there is no spark or fuel, then the first thing I would do is check the vehicle’s fuses and relays, particularly the EFI main and ignition relays. It may be possible that one of these components has failed and is cutting off power to the vehicle’s ignition and fuel systems. If these check out, then it may be possible that the issue is wiring-related, in which case I would carefully examine the engine bay for any worn, frayed, or otherwise potentially faulty wiring. A certified technician from YourMechanic, can come to your car’s location to inspect the car’s starting problem and pinpoint the repairs needed to have this resolved.

Was this answer helpful?

Need advice from certified mechanic? Get help now!

Over 1000 mechanics are ready to answer your question.
The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details

Get an instant quote for your car

Our certified mechanics come to you ・Backed by 12-month, 12,000-mile guarantee・Fair and transparent pricing

Get a quote

What others are asking

Q: hood latch locked before could. Lose hood and now hood is jammed and can't get it unjammed

Hi there: If the hood was having a problem closing and won't open now, it's typically an indicator that the hood latch itself is damaged or simply needs to be lubricated. The best way to have this issue repaired or...

Q: Difficulty starting especially on cold engine

Thanks for writing in about your 1984 Ford F-150 If the vehicle is easier to start when "rocking" the vehicle back and forth, it may be an issue with the fuel pick up inside the gas tank. If for example,...

Q: Car hit by lightning and won't start.

You will need to have the vehicle towed to a dealer. I have seen many vehicles like this and in most cases, if not all, the computers in the vehicle get zapped and fried. I would recommend contacting your insurance...

Related articles

How to Avoid Back Pain in a Car
If you have back problems, sitting in a car for an extended period of time can be excruciating. Even without back problems, you could experience discomfort and soreness from...
What are the Car Pool Rules in Hawaii?
Hawaii is widely regarded as a land of vacation and relaxation, and as such, its scenic roads and routes are far better known than the state’s freeways. But, as with all...
P2103 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High
P2103 means there is a fault with the throttle actuator control motor circuit, likely due to a defective electrical component or part.