My RF Brake Pads caught me a bit off guard when I started getting the metal-on-metal grinding noise. I didn't think I should have been anywhere close to needing a pad change although not out of relm of impossible (~34k miles since last front pad change), my LF pads have plenty of pad left on it. Since about September I have had my ABS and Brake Warning Lights randomly come on and off. Sometimes they would stay on for a while, not show up for days/weeks, or just pop on and off multiple times in a drive. So there was no really driving pattern or condition that seemed to impact the cause of the lights. I believe my root issue is either a restriction in one of the brake hoses, air in the hydraulic line, or a faulty ABS sensor. I am not throwing out the possibility of a sticky piston; the caliper was replaced in Jul 13 @ 55,000 miles.
My car has 119950 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
|ABS Light is on Inspection||$79.99 - $89.99||Get a Quote|
|Brake Warning Light is on Inspection||$79.99 - $89.99||Get a Quote|
|Brake Pads Replacement||$125.62 - $449.32||Get a Quote|
|Brake Caliper Replacement||$193.80 - $1094.50||Get a Quote|
When you look at the brake pads on the right side, if both the inner and outer pads are worn then you have a caliper piston sticking or the brake hose holding pressure to the caliper.
To check this you have to jack up the suspect wheel and have someone push on the brake to see if the wheel can lock up, then have them release the brake pedal to see if the wheel is still locked by the brakes. If the wheel stays locked up then open the caliper bleed screw to see if there is brake fluid pressure holding it indicating the hose is bad. If after opening the bleed screw and the wheel is still locked up then the caliper is the problem.
If you would like to have a professional mechanic inspect this in person, a technician from YourMechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your ABS and Brake Warnings Light and replace your brake pads or brake calipers if necessary.
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