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Welcome to Just Answer. My name is\*\*\*\*\* am a manufacturer trained Ford Senior Master Technician with 30 years of hands on experience. I am here to help. I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble with your vehicle today. The system will offer you a phone call. Feel free to accept or decline this service. It does not come directly from me. I personally cannot provide phone assistance on this website as I only do on line chat. I am usually on line in the evenings after 6:30 PM CST after I get off of work. Please give me a few moments to go over your concerns. First and foremost let me give you a little information on how this platform works. It is a strict one question one answer service. You ask one question and I will get as many details as I can from you. The reason for this is so I can provide you as accurate an answer as possible. Once I have submitted your answer please feel free to let me know if any clarification is needed about the answer to your question! Would you mind sending me your VIN and as many details as you can about the problem? This will allow me to give you the most accurate information possible based on your specific vehicle. Please know this is not an auto response message system. I am a full time Ford automotive technician, I review cases as they come in. If you do not receive a prompt response, this means I have stepped away momentarily or are working on your case as well as many others. Please be patient and I will be with you after your reply! How are you testing for spark?

Spark plug wire connected to spark plug grounded to top of throttle body

OK. Good. Do me a quick test please. Turn the key to on and see if the check engine warning light comes on. Then try to start the engine and see if the check engine light goes out while the engine is cranking over.

Check engine light does turn on when turning key to on position then when turning key over to crank, check engine light goes out.

OK. That tells me the crank sensor is good and the PCM (Engine Computer) is getting and RPM signal. Check for 12 volts on the Red wire at the coil, and then try cranking the engine over and checking for pulsed power on the tan wire at the coil.

Red wire at coil has 12 volts with 12 volt test light and no power at negative unless I create a closed circuit. Example 12 volt test light touching tan wire which should be negative on coil and other end connected to positive on battery post but only if I turn distributor by hand a hair circuit light will turn on.

OK. Do me a favor and use insulated pliers and have a helper crank the engine while you pull the coil wire slightly away from the distributor and see if you are getting spark from the coil.

No spark from coil

OK. Have you replaced the Ignition module yet? It is mounted on the radiator support on the drivers side of the engine bay.

No, haven’t replaced it. I took it out cleaned it. Meaning air and wiped with damp cloth. Checked for any damage. Truck does have 500,000 miles on odometer not sure if it had ever been replaced.

Those are supposed to have insulation grease on the back side of them to help with heat dissipation. But they can fail quickly. Especially after 500,000 miles.

Definitely no grease light film of dirt and dirt clay. Any suggestions?

I would get one from your local auto parts store. And make sure it comes with the dielectric grease to coat the back side of it. Of course when they open tomorrow.

Okay. Would a oil pressure sensor coming from oil pan keep truck from getting spark if wire got spliced fully disconnected.

Not on your 1993 Ranger. It was somewhat basic for engine elctronics.

Okay. Thank you so much. I value your time and I had a good experience. Will definitely recommend to others.

Thank you. You are very welcome.