My low beam headlight bulb is not working. I tried puttin...


My low beam headlight bulb is not working. I tried putting a new one in but it still didn’t light up. The old bulb doesn’t even look corroded or used up. ...

My low beam headlight bulb is not working. I tried putting a new one in but it still didn’t light up. The old bulb doesn’t even look corroded or used up.

Automotive Expert
Hello my name is\*\*\*\*\*'ll be giving you a hand. Which bulb is it driver/passenger or both?

Hello Austin. It is the passenger side, low beam
Automotive Expert
Okay. Give me a few minutes to look up a vehicle specific wiring diagram and examine it. I don't think it matter but for my purposes is it manual or automatic transmission?

It is an automatic
Automotive Expert
So my service information is telling me that this vehicles low beam system is equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) bulbs. They're the ones that usually have a intense blueish hue to them. Is that correct?

that is correct.
Automotive Expert
You have an issue specific to that bulbs circuit. There is a fuse specific to that buld (my service info is telling me it's #6 in the underhood fuse box and should be 15A). You need to check that with a test light while lights are on/car running and make sure it's good. Then I would check for power at the bulb and ground integrity. If both are good I would say you have a bad HID ballast on that side.

Ok, so Do I need to replace the 15A #6 if that’s the issue?
Automotive Expert
Yes, if the fuse is bad it needs to be replaced.

Alright, and what do you mean by checking the power of the bulb and ground integrity?The strength of the light?
Automotive Expert
No, checking power and ground means using a DVOM or better yet a test light to check and see if the component of an electrical circuit (in your case a headlamp) is getting the the flow of electricity it needs to perform it's job. If it is you know the rest of the circuit is generally without fault. HID lighting system incorporate high voltage circuits from the ballast to the bulb and I don't recommend working on them (beyond a bulb change) unless you are trained in automotive electrical diagnosis. There IS a risk of shock or injury. Your issue is most likely the ballast however that needs to be verified through electrical testing. For the reasons stated above you may not want to do that if you aren't sure of confident in what to do. Were you able to check the fuse for this circuit?
Automotive Expert
Since it has been a while since I’ve received a response please feel free to leave one here and I will respond as soon as I am logged backed in and can do so. Thanks for your understanding.

I apologize, I wasn’t able to check the fuse because I was going to buy a new one, the A15 since it could be the issue first right? Then if it wasn’t that I would buy the ballastI don’t have a test light
Automotive Expert
Yes, it could be. Generally when a fuse pops there is an underlying reason though. The point of testing the fuse with the circuit powered up is that you can see that the fuse is good and not popping with the circuit powered up. It rules out a short to ground and whatnot on the power side of the circuit. On your model the ballast/ignitor is the silver squarish piece that plugs into the back of the bulb. It has a regular electrical connector with four or so wires and a silver ground strap.

Ok understood. so I don’t have the light tester. would a safer bet be just to buy the new fuse and if it wouldn’t work just buy the ballast if it wasn’t the fuse that was the issue?like you said, I gotta test the circuit by using the light tester correct?
Automotive Expert
The next best thing you can do is pop that fuse out and inspect it visually to see if it's popped. Just make sure it goes back in the same spot you took it out of. If you have a multimeter you can do a resistance check on the fuse to make sure you have continuity too. If you determine that's in there now is good I would say a ballast/ignitor is your issue. It could always be the ground wire but we really don't have a great way to test that without a test light. It's also the less likely cause. \*If you determine the fuse that's in there now is good

Ok got it. And you’re talking about the fuse under the hood or the fuse under the steering wheel inside the car?
Automotive Expert
According to my Service info it should be fuse #6 under the hood. Just make sure the label on your fuse box says that fuse is for passenger low beam as a double-check. If there's a discrepancy go by what your fuse box says. It should be a 15 amp fuse.

Ok yea so I checked the fuse it looks pretty bad, so I’m gonna change it, and it was the right fuse you mentioned

This one right here
Automotive Expert
Great! hopefully it's just a bad fuse and it's a freak thing (which is totally possible). Can you flip the fuse around and take a pic so I can see the blue part?

Hopefully it is, here’s another pic
Automotive Expert
Doesn't appear blown but they're cheap enough to just replace while you already have it out. Can't hurt if you have one on hand.

Ok so it was the other one you mentioned right?
Automotive Expert
If the fuse didn't change anything I'd say it's the ballast/ignitor (assuming it's not a wiring issue since we don't really have the tools to check for that and I can't do it remotely). I am logging out for the night. Feel free to leave a response and I will respond as soon as I can in the morning.

thank you I believe this as concluded my question. I appreciate it
Automotive Expert
No problem. Glad to help and thank you!

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