Q: wheel bearings

If the brake line burst due to corrosion (not unusual), that of course would not be caused by a wheel bearing failure. The most common scenario when bearings fail soon after installation occurs when the installer fails to use a calibrated torque wrench to install the axle nut on unitized hub assemblies. The 4WD version of your car uses such unitized hub assemblies. If an air tool is used on the big axle retaining nut, you basically instantly ruin the wheel bearings because the balls get driven into the races. The nut has to be tightened to the value published in the Factory Service Manual, not one foot pound higher, or lower. The other style bearing used in the 2WD version, that is a tapered roller bearing with race, must also be carefully pre-loaded. So, truly, the only way a replacement bearing could fail is if it was either defective out of the box (not likely) or it was installed using the wrong tools. As far as the caliper(s), if they have more than 75,000 miles on them, just throw them away and buy remanufactured loaded calipers from a reputable vendor (dealer OEM is ideal if the dealer has a rebuilding program or AC Delco or comparable; watch out for big box auto parts store re-manufactured calipers, the quality is very uneven). Calipers and the attached torque plate with the sliding pins that end up rusting shut are subject to incredibly high heat and corrosion. Consequently, 75,000 miles is more than enough particularly if you put new rotors and pads on your vehicle, only to find that after the first 10,000 miles that the pads and rotor were ruined by a sticking caliper and then you have to the job all over again. YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic to your location and evaluate what you got and give you their best judgement as to how to get this fully resolved at the lowest possible cost. Please let us know how we can help you to that end.