I got 12.5v on the Idle Air Control Valve – IACV - when I turned the key to ON, but when the car was running it dropped to approx. 0.06v. When the IACV was disconnected there was no rise or drop in the idle even when I applied 12v. It’s a new valve that I heard click when I put power to it, so I knew it was good. I had a lot of vacuum leaks, too. So I’m planning to remove the intake and reseal most everything else. I’m trying to fix as much as I can right now. I have an oil switch, coolant switch and thermo time switch. But I thought the thermo time switch wasn’t any good, because I checked the ohms at hot and cold. I have a new overvoltage relay – OVP, and my frequency valve buzzes which could be affecting my idle. My main problem was starting up my car. It turned on right away, but stalled if I applied throttle to it. I have changed two of the warm up regulators - WUR - with junkyard ones, and I still have the incorrect fuel pressure. I don’t know if it was the plunger in the distributor or pressure relief valve. Do you have any thoughts? I need some help.
Hello. I think you may have a problem with the cold start valve not dumping the proper amount of fuel to allow the car to start and remain running on a cold start. The distributor should be checked as well so that is can be ruled out as the cause of the problem. It is possible that the used warm up regulators are bad so these need to be checked as well. Have a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, diagnose the stalling issue for you to have this properly corrected.
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