Skip the auto shop - Our mechanics make house calls

Q: No crank/no start

asked by on

Hi everybody! I have a 2007 Chevy impala with approx 156,XXX on it. The car was sitting for a couple of weeks, and when I went to start it again, the battery was completely dead, no power to anything. I replaced the battery with an OEM spec battery, and now it won't crank or start at all. I know there are issues with the passlock on these cars, but when I turn the key to the on position, the security light doesn't stay on more than 3 secs. The only light that stays on is the check engine light. Also, the power windows/power locks will not function at all either now. What could be causing this? I'm at a loss... Appreciate all the help!

My car has 153000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Be sure the battery is fully charged. "New" batteries are not necessarily fully charged at time of sale. Of course, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated. With the key held in the "start" position, you should test for power to the starter motor. If there is power (and no voltage drop), but no starter operation, then the starter motor/solenoid assembly is faulty. If there is no power, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. Basically, with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but it doesn’t work, the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, with the key in the "start" position, if there is no power to the starter, then the circuit is traced until the fault in the circuit is found. In addition to a faulty ignition switch, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

Was this answer helpful?

Need advice from certified mechanic? Get help now!

Over 1000 mechanics are ready to answer your question.
The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details

Get an instant quote for your car

Our certified mechanics come to you ・Backed by 12-month, 12,000-mile guarantee・Fair and transparent pricing

Get a quote

What others are asking

Q: Starter replaced. Battery at 12V. Still clicking

Hi there. Check all of the connections from the battery to the starter and to the ground. Make sure that all of the connections are tight and free of corrosion. Then check the relay to the starter relay that is...

Q: Car stuck in park

This is a very common problem for your type of vehicle. Often there is a component in the shifter mechanism that fails and causes the shifter to be unable to come out of park. The repair for this is to...

Q: How do I know which blend door actuator is affected?

Hi there. This video is actually pretty good showing how to replace a blend door actuator on a 2006 through 2013 Chevrolet Impala. You might want to watch the video to see where and how to replace this component. ...

Related articles

P0052 OBD-II Trouble Code: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0052 code definition HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 1) What the...
What are the Car Pool Rules in Hawaii?
Hawaii is widely regarded as a land of vacation and relaxation, and as such, its scenic roads and routes are far better known than the state’s freeways. But, as with all...
P2103 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High
P2103 means there is a fault with the throttle actuator control motor circuit, likely due to a defective electrical component or part.