Popular questions

Something in your anti-lock braking system is at fault. The fault may be anything from a sensor to a computer. Diagnosis is required with a scan tool to help determine the issue. A qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic...

It is possible that you could be experiencing a catalytic converter failure. This can be due to the fact that after driving 30-50 miles the exhaust system heats up quite a bit. Once the exhaust is heated up the catalytic...

Hello there, this is a very unusual issue with the 2011 Nissan Leaf. The Leaf uses electronically controlled hydraulic brakes. What this means is that the brake pedal, booster, and ABS is all electric. A few different faults could cause...

An engine will overheat within minutes, often within 1 minute, once the water pump stops circulating coolant. Of course, the practical concern is how much overheating (how high a temperature) does it take, and for what duration, before permanent damage...

This is a common problem when the voltage regulator is failing which is potentially due to a faulty ground or connection. I would start by checking the battery connections and cables to be sure they are not dirty or corroded....

As cars age even the most well maintained automobile will need some work. If the noise is from the belt or one of its accessories, then it can be easily confirmed. Removing the belt and restarting will let you know...

What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle...

Hello - most likely the neutral safety switch, or its circuit, are malfunctioning. If your dome light also no longer works, there will be a blown fuse that also keeps your neutral safety switch from working. I would recommend having...

Sounds like its almost time for a transmission rebuild. An automatic transmission has rubber seals inside similar to o-rings. These seals get hard over time and no longer do their job. Letting the car heat up also heats up the...

Hello. In newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection and ignition systems, engine knocking due to bad fuel or spark is extremely rare. In most cases, if the knocking sound is consistent and increases in speed as the RPM increases, it's...

If there is an oily residue on one of the sides or corners of the condenser, then there is most likely a leak in the AC system. The system will need to be recovered, and leak-checked, to be sure. The...

If the two posts are indeed specified for jump starting, then the answer is "yes" you can safely install a 12 volt car battery there at the remote posts while you remove and replace the permanent car battery. Electrically, all...

The best way to determine if you have worn internal engine parts is to use a micrometer and plastigauge if necessary to take measurements of certain parts. Once these measurements have been taken, you will then want to compare them...

Hello. Though this can be caused by a transmission failure, most of the time it is either caused by a cracked flywheel or a failing timing chain. I usually try to narrow down the location of the noise as that...

If the issue did not exist prior to the work being done, then the cause of the unusual noise is due to the pads and/or the interaction between the pads and the particular finish that was left on the rotor....

Hello. This is a simple yet involved fix. The crankshaft seal is located behind the crank and timing belt cover. In order to complete this repair, it is necessary to remove the timing belt and timing belt cover, in order...

This sounds like you may not have any power going to the fuel pump relay. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump your...