Suzuki Reno Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(16)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(16)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Suzuki Reno Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $236 with $96 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2007 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$588.96Shop/Dealer Price$701.05 - $1029.22
2006 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$579.95Shop/Dealer Price$690.27 - $1017.12
2007 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$527.38Shop/Dealer Price$579.55 - $726.46
2008 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$579.95Shop/Dealer Price$690.30 - $1017.16
2008 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$527.38Shop/Dealer Price$582.94 - $732.39
2005 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$337.59Shop/Dealer Price$387.49 - $532.69
2006 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$527.38Shop/Dealer Price$579.59 - $726.52
2006 Suzuki RenoL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$527.38Shop/Dealer Price$579.55 - $726.45
Show example Suzuki Reno Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Suzuki mechanics

Real customer reviews from Suzuki owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(16)

Rating Summary
16
0
0
0
0
16
0
0
0
0

Joel

15 years of experience
1142 reviews
Joel
15 years of experience
Reno 2007 - Car starts and then dies - Jacksonville, FL
First guy in a long time where i honestly felt like I could trust his professional recommendation. Thanks Joel

Theodore

10 years of experience
1656 reviews
Theodore
10 years of experience
Reno 2006 - Clutch Master Cylinder - SeaTac, WA

Theodore

10 years of experience
1656 reviews
Theodore
10 years of experience
Reno 2006 - Strut Assembly - SeaTac, WA

Excellent Rating

(16)

Rating Summary
16
0
0
0
0
16
0
0
0
0
Number of Suzuki Reno services completed
176+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Suzuki MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Troubleshoot a Car Exhaust or Engine Noise
Car exhaust systems and car engines make whirring, clicking, or sputtering noises if there's a faulty belt, alternator, water pump, or tension pulley.
P0902 OBD-II Trouble Code: Clutch Actuator Circuit Low
What What the P0902 code means The P0902 is a generic OBD-II powertrain code, which means it applies to all makes and models of vehicles from 1996 to the present. What causes the P0902 code? There may be one or...
P0557 OBD-II Trouble Code: Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0557 means there is an issue with the brake booster pressure sensor circuit. This could be due to a faulty sensor, vacuum leaks, or broken circuits.

Traction Control System

Hi Sean, I believe you are correct in that you may have a faulty wheel speed sensor at one of your wheels that may be dirty or not working properly. The traction control system monitors the steering and stability of...

Question about wheel size

You want a wheel that has the same offset, backspacing, and width as your existing wheels in order to avoid handling problems. If you had OEM wheels, I could tell you the offset but inasmuch as you have aftermarket wheels,...

able to move front passenger tire several degrees when jacked up like i'm turning

If you can move the tire left and right when jacked up without other wheel or steering wheel moving then check the inner tie rod for looseness or the steering rack bushings for wear or bad bushings.

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com