Buick Skylark Wheel Bearings Replacement at your home or office.

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Wheel Bearings Replacement Service

How much does a Wheel Bearings Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Buick Skylark Wheel Bearings Replacement is $257 with $117 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1994 Buick SkylarkL4-2.3LService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Front ReplacementEstimate$435.38Shop/Dealer Price$509.08 - $722.06
1991 Buick SkylarkV6-3.3LService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Front ReplacementEstimate$426.37Shop/Dealer Price$498.30 - $709.96
1993 Buick SkylarkL4-2.3LService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Front ReplacementEstimate$426.37Shop/Dealer Price$498.32 - $710.00
1996 Buick SkylarkL4-2.4LService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Front ReplacementEstimate$426.37Shop/Dealer Price$498.32 - $710.00
1990 Buick SkylarkL4-2.3LService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$379.55Shop/Dealer Price$441.27 - $618.94
1996 Buick SkylarkV6-3.1LService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$417.95Shop/Dealer Price$487.94 - $693.41
1991 Buick SkylarkL4-2.5LService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Front ReplacementEstimate$426.37Shop/Dealer Price$498.34 - $710.03
1992 Buick SkylarkL4-2.3LService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Front ReplacementEstimate$426.37Shop/Dealer Price$498.32 - $710.00
Show example Buick Skylark Wheel Bearings Replacement prices

What are wheel bearings and how do they work?

A wheel bearing assembly consists of rolling elements, such as hardened steel ball bearings or roller bearings, that roll on and around hardened steel bearing races. The wheel bearings support the front and rear axle, and all the weight of your car. Wheel bearings are made with a high-precision technique using extremely hard steel in order to withstand all the normal impacts that occur to the wheel and tire assembly as you drive along the road.

When to replace wheel bearings?

  • Growling or grinding noise from a wheel. Failed or failing wheel bearings make a very characteristic growling noise which will grow louder as the bearing wear progresses. If you believe the wheel bearing noise is coming from one side of the car, you can self-diagnosis your wheel bearing as you drive the car by loading and unloading vehicle weight You can do this by “swerving” from side-to-side. For example, if the noise markedly increases when you swerve to left, which shifts the vehicle’s weight to the right, then it often indicates the wheel bearing on the right is failing.

  • Axial or radial play in the wheel or wheel hub. Should the wheel hub move up and down or in and out, the bearing may be worn.

  • Vibration in the steering wheel or vehicle body and/or wandering. Vibration and lack of directional stability could be consequences of loose or worn out wheel bearings.

  • Tire and wheel assembly does not turn smoothly. With the wheel jacked up, and the car not in gear, the wheel should rotate smoothly. Rough or inconsistent movement, which is often accompanied by noise, can signify damaged bearings. Be sure the brakes are not dragging as you perform this check.

How do mechanics replace wheel bearings?

The complexity of wheel bearing replacement varies greatly depending on the vehicle make, model, year, the wheel position (front versus rear), and the drive type (AWD versus FWD):

  • On vehicles with unitized wheel bearing/hub assemblies, the brake rotor and caliper are removed.
  • The large axle nut is removed, the axle is pushed back through the center of the unitized hub assembly, and three (or more) bolts holding the hub assembly to the steering knuckle are removed.
  • The hub assembly is then removed from the knuckle. On installation of the new hub assembly to the knuckle, the bolts are torqued to the factory specification. In many cases, it is required to discard the old axle nut and replace with a new one. Special attention must be given to tightening the axle nut to the exact factory specification because over or under-tightening can damage the newly installed bearing. All YourMechanic professionals use calibrated torque wrenches on these critical fasteners.
  • Finally, the brake rotor and brake caliper are re-attached, the wheel installed and the car is road tested.
  • On vehicles where the wheel bearing is pressed into a cavity within the steering knuckle, the steering knuckle must be removed from the vehicle in order to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing.
  • On some vehicles, the wheel bearing is pressed onto an axle shaft and thus the axle must be extracted from the axle carrier. This will apply to certain trucks.

Is it safe to drive with a wheel bearing problem?

No. Wheel bearing failure is usually gradual, although in some cases it starts immediately after the dramatic impact of the wheel and tire assembly with a deep pothole. Wheel bearings can sometimes make noise for quite some time before you experience a catastrophic failure that would result in complete separation of the wheel and tire assembly from the axle. Generally, the risk of sudden failure increases with the noise level. But strictly speaking, once the bearing has started to fail it is impossible to predict exactly when it will fail completely. So it should not continue to be driven. Were a failing bearing to seize or break while you are moving, you could experience loss of control of the vehicle. Once you receive a conclusive diagnostic that a wheel bearing has failed, replace the bearing promptly.

When replacing wheel bearings, keep in mind:

  • If the car has a substantial number of miles on the failed bearing (100,000 miles or more), it is a good idea to replace both bearings (driver and passenger) on the axle at the same time.
  • Wheel bearing noise can be confused with tire noise from defective tires. In difficult cases, a mechanic will apply remote wireless microphones at all 4 wheel positions, and then drive the car while listening to a remote receiver, switching between wheel positions to pinpoint the location of the failed bearing.

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Carlos

18 years of experience
225 reviews
Carlos
18 years of experience
Buick Skylark V6-3.1L - Headlight Bulb Replacement (Driver Side Low Beam, Passenger Side Low Beam) - North Hollywood, California
Great guy! I'll definitely request Carloss the next time my car needs work

Luke

17 years of experience
138 reviews
Luke
17 years of experience
Buick Skylark V8-5.7L - Car is not starting - Chesterfield, Missouri
1972 Buick Skylark with fresh rebuilt 350 engine. Bored .30 with 10.1 compression, Comp Cam mutha thumper cam, TA performance SP3 intake, performance rocker arms, Holley Carburetor, hooker headers, performance lifters, push-rods and much more. She would not start but Luke diagnosed the problem and got her going! Going VERY well, I must say! Thank you Luke! You are the man!

Matthew

34 years of experience
1438 reviews
Matthew
34 years of experience
Buick Skylark V8-5.7L - Fuel Pump Tank Seal - Hampton, Virginia
Great Service provided

Eduardo

20 years of experience
570 reviews
Eduardo
20 years of experience
Buick Skylark L4-2.3L - Rear lights are not working Inspection - Pearland, Texas
Showed up a little early and quickly diagnosed the problem. Extremely professional and courteous. Would definitely use again.

Excellent Rating

(34)

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2
Number of Buick Skylark services completed
374+
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