Toyota Echo Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(106)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(106)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Toyota Echo Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $296 with $156 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2002 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$622.16Shop/Dealer Price$707.40 - $946.92
2000 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$944.54Shop/Dealer Price$1111.35 - $1603.52
2005 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$798.55Shop/Dealer Price$963.55 - $1454.36
2005 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$458.15Shop/Dealer Price$538.05 - $773.56
2003 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$798.55Shop/Dealer Price$965.02 - $1456.94
2000 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$798.55Shop/Dealer Price$963.69 - $1454.61
2001 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$604.14Shop/Dealer Price$685.93 - $922.86
2001 Toyota EchoL4-1.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$944.54Shop/Dealer Price$1111.40 - $1603.60
Show example Toyota Echo Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Toyota mechanics

Real customer reviews from Toyota owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(106)

Rating Summary
103
2
0
0
1
103
2
0
0
1

David

17 years of experience
639 reviews
David
17 years of experience
Toyota Echo L4-1.5L - Oil Change - Antioch, California
David was great. He arrived early, answered every one of dumb questions, explained the difference in oils and gave me a time line that I can remember, on when to change my car oil. Thank you David

David

37 years of experience
195 reviews
David
37 years of experience
Toyota Echo L4-1.5L - Engine or Transmission Mount Replacement - Los Angeles, California
He's a sincere mechanic who does a good job. I had some bad engine mounts in a beat up car that is difficult to fix, and he took care of everything.

Eliseo

13 years of experience
239 reviews
Eliseo
13 years of experience
Toyota Echo L4-1.5L - Car is not starting - Montgomery, Texas
Very efficient,had good knowledge,and explained how I could fix it,if I decided to on my own.

Rafael

28 years of experience
77 reviews
Rafael
28 years of experience
Toyota Echo L4-1.5L - Water Pump Replacement - Berkeley, California
Very friendly. He was willing to take me to a nearby car parts store for additional, unanticipated replacement parts. Alerted me to other potential issues with my car that he was not working on today. Knowledgeable, professional, experienced.

Excellent Rating

(106)

Rating Summary
103
2
0
0
1
103
2
0
0
1
Number of Toyota Echo services completed
1166+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Toyota MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

5 Ways to Deal With a Totaled Car After a Car Crash
You have options if you get in a car crash and your car is totaled. You can fix your car, sell individual car parts, or donate your car to charity.
P2455 OBD-II Trouble Code: Diesel Particulate Filter Differential Pressure Sensor Short to Voltage
P2455 P2455 code definition Diesel Particulate Filter Differential Pressure Sensor Short to Voltage What the P2455 code means P2455 is an OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has detected the diesel particulate filter differential pressure sensor (DPFPS)...
How Long Does a Carburetor Last?
The The carburetor combines fuel and air in the engine by using an intake vacuum supply. The air is pulled down through to the carburetor by the intake vacuum while fuel is siphoned from the carburetor’s fuel bowl. From here,...

Check Engine Light is on and OnStar says it is code P0008

Hey there. This code is "generally" related to the timing chain (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/timing-chain-replacement) and related components. This is usually due to engine mechanical problems, stretched timing chain or a failed camshaft actuator or actuator solenoid. The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors...

Water getting inside driver side door 2013 Honda Pilot

Hi - yes, it is quite likely the water leak (https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/i-have-water-that-s-getting-inside-my-drivers-side-back-door-and-floor-what-could-be-causing-this-by-lakeisha-j) you describe is the source of failed electrical functionality. If the weatherseal around the driver door glass is leaking, allowing water to splash on the master switch assembly for...

Gas is coming out from under the hood

You didn't say whether you got the car to run, but if you did, do not drive it. It can be very dangerous in this condition. The fuel pumped up to the engine is under pressure, so when it leaks...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com