Ford E-250 Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(60)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(60)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ford E-250 Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2013 Ford E-250V8-4.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2013 Ford E-250V8-5.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2011 Ford E-250V8-5.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2003 Ford E-250V8-5.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2009 Ford E-250V8-4.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2003 Ford E-250V8-4.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2012 Ford E-250V8-5.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2008 Ford E-250V8-5.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Ford E-250 Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ford mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ford owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(60)

Rating Summary
59
0
0
0
1
59
0
0
0
1

Dan

39 years of experience
1005 reviews
Dan
39 years of experience
Ford E-250 V8-4.6L - Inspection Service - Decatur, Georgia

Kevin

17 years of experience
88 reviews
Kevin
17 years of experience
Ford E-250 V8-5.4L - Air Filter - Morrisville, Pennsylvania
Diligent.

Larry

19 years of experience
116 reviews
Larry
19 years of experience
Ford E-250 V8-5.4L - Brake Pads Replacement (Rear) - Hayward, California
Excellent service. Larry did rear brakes on our E250 van, really nice guy, punctual and great work. Honest assessment of work needed.

Frank

30 years of experience
60 reviews
Frank
30 years of experience
Ford E-250 V8-4.6L - Spark Plugs - Wesley Chapel, Florida
Came on time and fixed my van promptly. A+

Excellent Rating

(60)

Rating Summary
59
0
0
0
1
59
0
0
0
1
Number of Ford E-250 services completed
660+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ford MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P2281 OBD-II Trouble Code: Air Leak Between Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor and Throttle Body
Diagnostic Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): P2281 P2281 code definition Air Leak Between Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor and Throttle Body Related Trouble Codes: P2282 : Air Leak Between Throttle Body and Intake Valves Engine Misfire Codes that may be a symptom...
How to Drive Long Distances Alone
When When going on a long trip (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/seven-tips-for-planning-the-great-american-road-trip-by-kevin-woo) in your vehicle, it is best to take someone with you to help with driving duties and to help you stay awake. Unfortunately, this is not always possible, mainly due to scheduling...
P0436 OBD-II Trouble Code: Catalyst Temperature Sensor Range/Performance (Bank 2)
Trouble code P0436 means a catalyst element for engine bank 2 is not working well or are outside the manufacturer's parameters.

Misfiring. Changed the fuel pump and the plugs

Hi there. It depends on what type of digital scanner you're using, but most professional scanners will be able to see the misfiring cylinder on the scope while the engine is running. This will typically also indicate which electrical sensor...

I just installed a new fuel pump on my 1995 f150 xl.. I had thought the pump was bad.. But come to find out that there is no power

Hi Micah. Thanks for contacting us today. Typically, when you have an issue like this, it's caused by either an exposed electrical wire that is creating a short or a blown fuse/relay. The best advice I can offer is for...

I drive a 2003 dodge grand caravan 3.0 engine front wheel drive and when i get above 40 miles an hour and go to slow down it shifts down hard

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com