Ford E-150 Clutch is not fully disengaging Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(53)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(53)

Clutch is not fully disengaging Inspection Service

How much does a Clutch is not fully disengaging Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ford E-150 Clutch is not fully disengaging Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2007 Ford E-150V8-5.4LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
2011 Ford E-150V8-4.6LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2005 Ford E-150V8-4.6LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2005 Ford E-150V8-5.4LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.39 - $119.68
2008 Ford E-150V8-5.4LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.42 - $119.75
2013 Ford E-150V8-5.4LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2012 Ford E-150V8-4.6LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$130.87 - $135.28
2011 Ford E-150V8-5.4LService typeClutch is not fully disengaging InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$131.24 - $135.94
Show example Ford E-150 Clutch is not fully disengaging Inspection prices

Your car’s clutch is what allows you to change gears. When you press the clutch pedal, the clutch moves away from flywheel, stopping the rotation and allowing you to shift to a higher or lower gear without causing damage (grinding gears does your transmission no good at all). When you release the clutch pedal, the clutch should press up against the flywheel and you should be able to proceed in the newly selected gear. However, there are some situations in which the clutch may not fully disengage.

How this system works:

To put it in a nutshell, clutches work based on friction. When the clutch pedal is pressed, either a cable or a piston (depending on the type of clutch is installed in your vehicle) will push the release fork. This causes the throw out bearing to press against the diaphragm spring.

The center of the spring is pushed in, which engages a series of pins. These pull the pressure plate away from the clutch disc and separate the clutch from the engine flywheel. When you take your foot off the pedal, the reverse happens, and the clutch is engaged.

Clutch components are subject to a significant amount of wear and tear (because they work on friction – this is normal). The most common problem here is the disc wearing. The material is a lot like what you’ll find on your brake pads, and the operating concept is also very similar. Of course, that creates slippage, which isn’t the problem here. Failure to disengage is called “sticking”, and there are several potential causes.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Stretched/Broken Clutch Cable: If the clutch cable is broken or stretched, then the clutch will stick (not disengage). You’ll notice the sticking becoming more and more common as the cable continues to stretch.

  • Leaking Hydraulic System: If you have a hydraulic clutch, it’s possible that either the slave or master cylinder (or both) is leaking. This means that insufficient hydraulic pressure is built up for the clutch system to operate correctly.

  • Misadjusted Linkage: The linkage connects the clutch pedal to the transmission. If it’s incorrectly adjusted, the clutch may not disengage properly.

  • Incompatible Aftermarket Parts: If you’ve recently had clutch work done, it’s possible that aftermarket components were installed in your car. Not all aftermarket parts will work correctly with your clutch, and this can cause it to not fully disengage.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect the entire clutch system and determine the source and cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the clutch, as well as the cable or hydraulic system. Both a visual inspection and a test drive may be required. Once the underlying cause has been determined, the mechanic will recommend the next step.

How important is this service?

If your clutch is not fully disengaging, it means that the flywheel and clutch disc are not fully separating. This causes additional wear not only on the clutch material, but on other components in the system (including the input shaft).

The best defense against transmission problems is to ensure that you work with a reputable mechanic for general maintenance who can inspect and troubleshoot problems as they arise. It’s also important to ensure that any aftermarket clutch components installed are fully compatible with your vehicle. If you’re experiencing problems with the clutch not fully disengaging, one of our professional mechanics can inspect and repair the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ford mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ford owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(53)

Rating Summary
51
2
0
0
0
51
2
0
0
0

Joseph

18 years of experience
81 reviews
Joseph
18 years of experience
Ford E-150 V8-4.6L - Oil Change - Pompano Beach, Florida
Great job and thorough inspection.

David

19 years of experience
39 reviews
David
19 years of experience
Ford E-150 V8-4.6L - Brakes, Steering and Suspension Inspection - Littleton, Colorado
David did a great job changing my rear rotors and break pads and I would highly recommend him

Chuy

15 years of experience
503 reviews
Chuy
15 years of experience
Ford E-150 V8-4.6L - Car is not starting - Chicago, Illinois
Very nice and respectful. He talked to me as he worked so I'll know what's going on

Curtis

43 years of experience
4 reviews
Curtis
43 years of experience
Ford E-150 V8-4.6L - Door lock is not opening from the outside. Handle doesn't look broken. It opens from the inside. - San Jose, California
He was on time and did a speedy job. He answered all questions before I could even ask them. I would definitely have him come back if something else happens to our van. Thanks, Curtis!

Excellent Rating

(53)

Rating Summary
51
2
0
0
0
51
2
0
0
0
Number of Ford E-150 services completed
583+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ford MECHANICS
1800+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer's Guide to the 2012 Buick Regal
The The 2012 Buick Regal is definitely not the Regal of yesteryear you may have heard your grandparents fawn over. This mid-size sedan has a lot of modern features that start at the engine and stretch all the way to...
How Long Does a Horn Relay Last?
Having Having a fully functional horn is an essential part of staying safe while driving. The horn on your vehicle will allow you to alert other drivers of your presence and can be used to prevent accidents in some instances....
How to Get Smart Dealership Certified
Smart car dealerships offer automotive technician jobs to mechanics who are Smart certified through a Smart training program such as UTI.

Heater valve stuck.

The heater control valve (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/heater-control-valve-replacement) is mounter under the hood on this vehicle. The valve should be closed when the temperature is set to cold for the rear a/c system. The recommendation would be to have a qualified mechanic check...

I have a P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor High Input Code and want to know how to fix this

The code P0193 pinpoint test should be done to verify the pressures and sensor indicate the same. You most likely have a defective sensor for the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. Replace the sensor and clear the codes. If...

As I drive there is a loud thump noise in my rear driver side tire.

The description of the noise you hear is most likely a tire has a separation in the tread. The tire will still hold air but the tire will be coming apart between the treads. You should have the tire checked...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com