Audi 80 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,694)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(2,694)

Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement Service

How much does a Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi 80 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement is $610 with $246 for parts and $364 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1990 Audi 80L4-2.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1029.48Shop/Dealer Price$1192.75 - $1641.43
1991 Audi 80L5-2.3LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1802.31Shop/Dealer Price$2156.35 - $3197.54
1992 Audi 80L5-2.3LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1816.91Shop/Dealer Price$2171.41 - $3212.93
Show example Audi 80 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement prices

What is the Front Crankshaft Seal all about?

A number of mechanisms must work together to make your vehicle move forward. One of the most important is the crankshaft, which converts rotary into linear motion; i.e., it transforms the force created by the engine's pistons moving up and down into a force that moves in a circular motion that causes a car’s wheel to turn. Enclosed in what’s called a crankcase—the largest cavity in the engine block, just below the cylinders—the crankshaft must be completely lubricated, essentially submerged in oil, to spin nearly friction-free and do its job properly.

Consequently, there are seals located at either end of the crankshaft that allow it to spin freely and keep engine oil from escaping the engine block, as well as prevent contaminants and other debris from entering and causing damage to the mechanism. Since there are two ends of the crankshaft, there are two types of seals: the front crankshaft seal and the rear crankshaft seal, also known as the front main and rear main seals.

Keep in mind:

  • Loss of oil will eventually cause serious internal engine damage.
  • Inspect the sealing surface of the crankshaft or the crankshaft pulley (depending on the engine design) for damage when replacing the crankshaft seal.
  • Oil degrades rubber components.

How it's done:

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands
  • The crankshaft damper and timing belt is removed
  • The crankshaft seal is removed and a new one installed
  • The timing belt and cover along with crankshaft damper is reinstalled
  • The engine accessory belts are installed and the vehicle is lowered off of the jack stands

Our recommendation:

One of the most important parts of your car, crankshaft seals are typically made from a durable material, such as a synthetic rubber or silicone, designed to handle the extreme pressure and temperatures as well as the caustic chemicals in your engine oil. Because they are exposed to such abuse, main seals are subject to a lot of wear and tear. And whether you are talking a front or rear main seal, replacement is the only cure when one malfunctions.

The good news is that the seals are relatively inexpensive components. The bad news is that neither is easy to replace.

Front seal: The front seal is located behind the main pulley that drives all the belts, which is, of course, always spinning. The main pulley throws any leaking oil out in a big circle. It can get thrown up on the alternator, steering pump, belts, in short anything attached to the front of the engine and cause a real mess and eventually some serious damage. Consequently, it has to be removed along with many of the components attached to the front of the block to replace the front main seal.

Rear seal: The rear crankshaft seal is placed along with the transmission; therefore, the process of replacing it requires the removal of transmission, as well as the clutch and flywheel assembly. This is a very involved job.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Front Crankshaft Seal?

  • Oil leaking from the front crank pulley.
  • Oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch housing, where the block and transmission meet.
  • Clutch slip caused by oil spraying on the clutch.

How important is this service?

Letting either crankshaft seal continue to leak can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides the maladies caused by driving around with little to no oil flowing in the engine, the faulty seal will be spread oil through the engine bay and undercarriage of your car as you drive, a mess that is difficult to clean up and can be a fire hazard. Replacing is better addressed sooner than later.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,694)

Rating Summary
2,506
93
20
13
62
2,506
93
20
13
62

Ben

42 years of experience
1589 reviews
Ben
42 years of experience
Audi A8 Quattro V8-4.2L - Front Crankshaft Seal - Houston, Texas
Excellent experience

Mark

12 years of experience
349 reviews
Mark
12 years of experience
Audi A6 V6-3.0L - Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection - Redwood City, California
Mark was beyond helpful and even showed up early! Probably the best interaction with a mechanic I've ever had

Maxwell

19 years of experience
390 reviews
Maxwell
19 years of experience
Audi TT L4-2.0L Turbo - Timing Belt Replacement - Spring, Texas
Maxwell was on time and performed the job great

Jose

11 years of experience
285 reviews
Jose
11 years of experience
Audi Q5 L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Palm Harbor, Florida
Jose did a great job, very professional

Excellent Rating

(2,694)

Rating Summary
2,506
93
20
13
62
2,506
93
20
13
62
Number of Audi services completed
29634+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
800+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

B1203 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
B1203 means a circuit in the fuel tank sender has shorted. This is likely caused by a faulty wire, or the fuel tank sender could be defective.
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Canister Purge Solenoid
Common signs of a problem with a car EVAP canister purge solenoid include rough idle, difficulty starting, and the Check Engine Light turning on.
P0537 OBD-II Trouble Code: A/C Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0537 means the evaporator core’s temperature dropped, lowering circuit resistance due to a faulty temperature sensor, expansion valve, or wiring.

bunch of lights on dash coming on at once

It seems like your have at least an alternator (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/alternator-replacement) problem, but electrical tests will need to be performed to determine if its bad. Typically a battery light indicates that the charging system is not operational. This could be due...

p1112 code and p0112 code on the OBD2 scan tool

Hello, thank you for writing in. Both of the diagnostic troubleshooting codes that you have pulled from the computer relate to the vehicle intake air temperature sensor. The MAP sensor does play a large role in the way the vehicle...

My car light keeps coming on I think it's a electrical problem a bolt with two lines is showing up

This symbol on Chrysler vehicles and potentially other vehicles is typically related to the electronic throttle body. The throttle body is not controlled with a cable like vehicles of older days. The electronic throttle bodies are controlled with a motor...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com