Toyota Celica Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(149)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(149)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Toyota Celica Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1982 Toyota CelicaL4-2.4LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2005 Toyota CelicaL4-1.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1981 Toyota CelicaL6-2.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1992 Toyota CelicaL4-1.6LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1994 Toyota CelicaL4-2.2LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2000 Toyota CelicaL4-1.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1978 Toyota CelicaL4-2.2LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2001 Toyota CelicaL4-1.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Toyota Celica Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Toyota mechanics

Real customer reviews from Toyota owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(149)

Rating Summary
137
6
2
1
3
137
6
2
1
3

Brandon

20 years of experience
773 reviews
Brandon
20 years of experience
Toyota Celica L4-1.8L - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Winter Garden, Florida
Brandon was punctual, professional, and very thorough. His knowledge of auto mechanics was apparent from the beginning, and served as an invaluable resource which saved me hundreds of dollars on potentially costly repairs. I would recommend Brandon to anyone who needs a reliable, professional mechanic.

Joel

11 years of experience
159 reviews
Joel
11 years of experience
Toyota Celica L4-1.8L - Evaporative Emission Control Canister - Dallas, Texas
Joel was excellent, nice, very informative, and he did a great job replacing my evap canister on my 2000 Toyota Celica. I would definitely recommend him........Andre Braddox, Dallas ,TX

Rodney

36 years of experience
561 reviews
Rodney
36 years of experience
Toyota Celica L4-1.6L - Power Steering Fluid Service - Tracy, California
This is Rodney's second visit to our home, following up on service he recommended when working on my car last week. Rodney showed up on time, had all the parts needed, and now my car is good as new. Thank you!

Phillip

17 years of experience
85 reviews
Phillip
17 years of experience
Toyota Celica L4-2.2L - Oil Change - San Antonio, Texas

Excellent Rating

(149)

Rating Summary
137
6
2
1
3
137
6
2
1
3
Number of Toyota Celica services completed
1639+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Toyota MECHANICS
1600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Are Lights the Only Thing the OBD Uses to Warn the Driver of Issues?
If If your car was manufactured after 1996, it has an OBD II system that monitors emissions and other systems on board. While it’s primarily focused on emissions, it can also report other problems that are only peripherally related to...
How Long Does a Ride Control Module Last?
Once Once upon a time, automotive suspensions were pretty primitive. They’ve evolved a lot since then, and there are several types in use today. Most cars use springs and shocks/struts, but some vehicles use an air suspension system. This type...
How Long Does a Throttle Return Spring Last?
Not Not all vehicles on the road feature an electronic throttle control (ETC), which is also called drive-by-wire. For vehicles that don't offer this system, they have a throttle cable instead that is attached to the accelerator pedal, and runs...

Radio and AC buttons don't work

Hi, thanks for writing in. I would recommend having all of your fuses checked first. It is unlikely that both of those control units would go bad at once. Here at YourMechanic, we can have a technician come to your...

My car is sputtering but it's not a blown gasket what else could it be

Hi, thanks for writing in. This could be many different possibilities ranging from fuel delivery issues to possibly a blown head gasket. Without further detail of the symptoms, this may be tough to diagnose without physically inspecting or taking the...

Car turns on but shifter shuts off and car won't move.

What you are describing is likely an electrical fault involving the safety shift interlock. This problem can be diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis, right at your location, if you request a transmission shift interlock diagnostic/repair (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/shift-interlock-solenoid-replacement). To temporarily...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com