Mazda 3 Sport Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(4,541)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(4,541)

Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection Service

How much does a Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda 3 Sport Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2013 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.5LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2012 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.5LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2019 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.0LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2020 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.0LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2016 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.0LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2017 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.5LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2010 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.0LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2011 Mazda 3 SportL4-2.5LService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Mazda 3 Sport Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection prices

Your car’s engine needs to maintain the right operating temperature. As it runs, it creates immense amounts of heat. Coolant is circulated through the engine to absorb heat, and then it goes back to the radiator, where the radiator fan helps wick away the collected heat. Once cooled, the coolant is then sent back into the engine to do it all again. This should keep your engine in the normal operating temperature range, but if your temperature gauge is maxed out, there could be something seriously wrong.

How this system works:

The temperature gauge in your dash is connected to the car’s computer and from there to a temperature sensor on the engine block. The sensor measures the temperature of your car’s coolant (it uses resistance, but the actual resistance values can vary drastically from one automaker to another, and from one model to another).

The information read by the sensor is sent to the car’s computer, which adjusts the temperature gauge and also plays a role in the cooling system. Depending on the temperature level, the radiator fan will cycle on and off. As the temperature of your coolant rises, the needle in your temperature gauge should rise, moving from cold to normal. However, it may move all the way to hot in some cases.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Low Coolant: The first suspected cause of your temperature gauge maxing out is low coolant. If this occurs, your engine can overheat, and serious damage can result, up to and including cracking the block. However, if the engine isn’t actually hot (the temp gauge is maxed out but there’s no abnormal levels of heat from the engine), this isn’t the problem.

  • Broken Temp Gauge: If the temperature gauge is maxed out but the engine isn’t actually hot, then the problem may be a broken temperature gauge. The needle may be stuck in the hot range (this can happen after overheating the engine), or a stepper gear in the gauge may be damaged.

  • Failed Temp Sensor: If the temperature sensor on your engine block has failed, it may not send any information to the system, or it may send an erroneous signal, causing the gauge to rise without any actual overheating. It’s also possible that the sensor is shorting.

  • Failed Thermostat: If your car’s thermostat sticks in the closed position, coolant will not fully cycle through the engine, and it will begin to overheat. Your temperature gauge will rise quickly, particularly if it is very warm outside.

  • Cooling Fan Motor Failure: If the motor for your radiator cooling fan fails, it will not cycle on. This reduces the amount of airflow over the radiator, meaning that much of the heat is retained by the coolant, and it will not be able to absorb more from the engine.

  • Bad Fan Switch: Another reason your radiator fan might not be working is a bad fan switch. This switch controls the cycling of your radiator fan(s), and if it fails, it can cause overheating.

  • Air in System after Coolant Service: If you’ve recently had your engine coolant drained and refilled, it’s possible there’s air in the system. Air bubbles can form and block coolant from cycling through the engine, causing it to overheat.

What to expect:

A professionally trained mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s temperature gauge and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect the coolant level of your vehicle, as well as the temperature sensor and other components in order to determine the cause of the gauge maxing out. It may be necessary to test drive the vehicle and verify if the engine is actually overheating, or if the problem lies with the sensor or the gauge.

How important is this service?

If your car is actually overheating, it’s a very serious problem that could quickly lead to engine-killing damage. Even if the problem is just a malfunctioning sensor or gauge, the issue is still serious, as you will have no means of observing the actual temperature of your engine coolant. One of our professional mechanics can inspect and repair your system.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mazda mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mazda owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(4,541)

Rating Summary
4,269
143
36
18
75
4,269
143
36
18
75

Refugio

21 years of experience
122 reviews
Refugio
21 years of experience
Mazda 3 Sport L4-2.0L - Axle / CV Shaft Assembly Replacement (Passenger Side Front) - San Antonio, Texas
Awesome job by robert

James

27 years of experience
25 reviews
James
27 years of experience
Mazda CX-5 L4-2.0L - Car starts and then dies - Pflugerville, Texas
Professional and knowledgeable.

Andrew

11 years of experience
354 reviews
Andrew
11 years of experience
Mazda 2 L4-1.5L - Tie Rod End Replacement (Front Right Inner) - Pasadena, Maryland
Great Service! Drew is very knowledgeable. I highly recommend him, and will recommend to everyone.

Trung

12 years of experience
412 reviews
Trung
12 years of experience
Mazda Miata L4-1.6L - Alternator - Union City, California
Trung was great to work with an very trustworthy guy. Flexible in his scheduling too.

Excellent Rating

(4,541)

Rating Summary
4,269
143
36
18
75
4,269
143
36
18
75
Number of Mazda services completed
49951+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mazda MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Ford Explorer
Over Over 20 years ago, Ford changed everything for the American car-buying market when they introduced the first generation of the Explorer. Today, the 2012 Ford Explorer continues the evolution of modern large SUVs with a number of updates, including...
How Long Does a Cruise Control Clutch Release Switch Last?
The The cruise control clutch release switch is only located on manual transmission vehicles. These vehicles have a clutch pedal, is depressed. The cruise control works on a circuit system. If the clutch pedal is not pressed in at all,...
P0326 OBD-II Trouble Code: Knock Sensor Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 code definition Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) What the P0326 code means The P0326 code means...

Sluggish acceleration while in 2nd gear.

This could be traditional "turbo lag" - I would check the turbocharger boost control components for air leaks, or poor electrical connections. I would also check the throttle position sensor, which may not always be recognizing your foot pressing the...

Engine won't crank to start.

Even if the shift interlock solenoid (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-shift-interlock-solenoid) is faulty, as long as the gearshift is in the Park position, you should still be able to start the car. Once the engine is running, you just won't be able to shift...

whinning/squeeling after 10 min drive

Hi Alex. Thanks for the question today. It's quite possible that the aftermarket valve cover is not sealing correctly, or when the engine gets to operating temperature, the gasket expands to create a vacuum leak. This is a common side-effect...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com