Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Parking brake is stuck Inspection at your home or office.

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Parking brake is stuck Inspection Service

How much does a Parking brake is stuck Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Parking brake is stuck Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-6.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-6.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-5.3LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-6.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-6.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-6.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-5.3LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 2500V8-6.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Parking brake is stuck Inspection prices

Your parking brake is a valuable component that helps ensure better safety when parked on an incline, and also helps reduce unnecessary loading of the transmission. If you’ve ever parked on a hill and not used the parking brake, you’re familiar with the loud “thunk” and lurch that happens when you crank the car and put it in drive when you’re ready to leave. Engaging the parking brake avoids this, and enhances safety. However, if your parking brake is stuck, the light in your dash will stay on, and you may damage the brake shoes while driving.

How this system works:

Your parking brake is actually very little more than a lever attached to a cable. When you pull the parking brake handle in the cabin, it engages a cable. That cable runs from the parking brake handle under the car and to the back wheels. Pulling up on the handle pulls the cable taut, which engages the parking brake.

The brake itself is nothing more than a pair of small brake shoes mounted inside the drum built into the rear rotors of your car. The shoes press outward on the drum, holding the wheel in place (it’s not as strong as your normal brakes, and generally cannot hold the car by itself on anything more than a very gentle incline).

When you put the parking brake handle down, the cable disengages the parking brake and the shoes retract from against the walls of the drum. This releases the vehicle, allowing you to drive without damaging the parking brake.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Rust and Corrosion: One of the most common problems with parking brakes is corrosion on the cable that leads to the rear brakes. Once the cable begins to rust, it can stick. When this happens, you won’t be able to release the parking brake.

  • Engaged Too Hard: While uncommon, it is possible for the parking brake to stick if you applied it to hard. If you crank back on the handle as hard as possible, you’re overdoing it, and it’s possible for the cable to stretch, the shoes to stick and more.

  • Damaged/Stuck Adjuster Screw: The rear brake shoes are operated by an adjuster screw. If the screw is stuck, corroded or damaged, it will not move and your parking brake will not disengage.

  • Leaving It Engaged for Too Long: Most of us use our parking brake on a relatively limited basis, leaving it engaged overnight at the longest. In some situations, leaving it engaged for a long period (say over the winter in storage) can cause the assembly to freeze and stick.

What to expect:

Our professional mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect the parking brake handle, cable, lever, adjusting screw, shoes and other components in the system. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect all aspects of the parking brake, from the handle to the cable, all the way back to the lever, the spring, the adjusting screw and the shoes. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels. It may also be necessary to disassemble the rear brakes to reach the parking brake components.

How important is this service?

If your parking brake is stuck, you cannot drive the car without causing further damage. It’s highly advised to leave your car parked where it is if you notice that the Parking Brake light stays on after lowering the handle, or feeling resistance when trying to drive (or smelling burned brake material after driving). One of our professional mechanics will be able to diagnose the problem and restore functionality to your parking brake.

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Scott

34 years of experience
31 reviews
Scott
34 years of experience
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 V8-6.0L - Check Engine Light is on - Baldwin, Maryland
Scott was very professional, honest, knowledgeable and skilled. Great experience. Highly recommended.

Steve

37 years of experience
149 reviews
Steve
37 years of experience
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 V8-6.0L - Check Oil Cooler Line - Fremont, California

Robert

20 years of experience
1092 reviews
Robert
20 years of experience
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 V8-6.0L - Car is not starting - Golden, Colorado
Robert was great - knows his stuff and very friendly.

Joshua

27 years of experience
709 reviews
Joshua
27 years of experience
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 V8-6.0L - Service Light is on - Benicia, California
great mechanic.

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I was passing a truck going about 80 mph. After I took my foot off the accelerator but I continued to go faster and faster. I applied the brake, and I slowed down. When I took my foot off the brake, the car started to go faster and faster again. I Stopped at the next intersection and turned off the ignition. Started it up again and it revved like crazy, then when I started to drive again, it jerked. Stopped in a parking lot, turned off the car again, then restarted it. The engine revved again and I smelled burning rubber. My husband came and started it and it started fine. Drove fine around town. Have a Subaru Forester.

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