Toyota Corolla Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,862)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,862)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Toyota Corolla Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1983 Toyota CorollaL4-1.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1971 Toyota CorollaL4-1.2LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1994 Toyota CorollaL4-1.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1968 Toyota CorollaL4-1.1LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1975 Toyota CorollaL4-1.2LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2009 Toyota CorollaL4-1.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1987 Toyota CorollaL4-1.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1991 Toyota CorollaL4-1.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Toyota Corolla Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Toyota mechanics

Real customer reviews from Toyota owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,862)

Rating Summary
2,694
112
17
3
36
2,694
112
17
3
36

Andrew

11 years of experience
841 reviews
Andrew
11 years of experience
Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L - Grinding noise when braking - Kansas City, Missouri
I had Andrew return to check on what sounded like a grinding sound when I applied the brakes. He did so as soon as time allowed and double checked the wheel bearing replacement he had performed previously. Finding no problem with his work, he suggested I check wirh the shop that had recently completed a brake job on my rear brakes. Before I had a chance to do so, the sound stopped and and has not returned. Overall, Andrew did a solid job and was concerned about what may have been causing the noise I noticed when braking, believing it was a brake issue. He was timely, organized and focused on doing a good job.

Collins

12 years of experience
488 reviews
Collins
12 years of experience
Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Marietta, Georgia
Very polite and curteous.

Erick

10 years of experience
182 reviews
Erick
10 years of experience
Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L - Water Pump - San Jose, California
Erick was awesome! I scheduled services based on the dealership's diagnosis but Erick realized that I didn't really need some of them. He was honest and friendly and I will definitely be calling him again!

David

27 years of experience
182 reviews
David
27 years of experience
Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - San Francisco, California
David was awesome, he was on time charismatic and professional

Excellent Rating

(2,862)

Rating Summary
2,694
112
17
3
36
2,694
112
17
3
36
Number of Toyota Corolla services completed
31482+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Toyota MECHANICS
1600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0016 OBD-II Trouble Code: Camshaft Position A - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1)
P0016 code definition Camshaft Position A - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1) What the P0016 code means P0016 is the OBD-II generic...
Veteran and Military Driver Laws and Benefits in Iowa
The The state of Iowa offers a number of benefits and perks for those Americans who have either served in an Armed Forces branch in the past, or are current active military members. Disabled veteran registration fee waiver and reduced...
P2402 OBD-II Trouble Code: EVAP Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit High
What the P2402 code means? P2402 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module (ECM) detecting the evaporative system leak...

Can't get out of Park w/o manual release 2007 BMW 328

Hello - I would check your brake light switch (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-long-does-a-brake-light-switch-last) and the fuse for the brake lights. If you have no brake lights, the brake switch has likely failed, preventing the shifter from leaving the Park position, without the manual...

I have an 08 dodge charger 2.7l. I changed my water pump, reset my timing chain (used timing marks) but now engine won't start. Th

If the check engine light is on, codes were stored. As an initial step, those codes should be read as they may have essential clues to what is going on. To have the codes read, and the no start resolved,...

Whining noise in my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer's CVT Transmission

Check the transmission fluid level and condition. The oil cooler can fail, causing loss of enough fluid to cause noise from the transmission. There is a manufacturer Technical Service Bulletin relative to parts failure in the transmission accompanied by a...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com