Lexus LX570 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(14)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(14)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Lexus LX570 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2019 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2009 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2015 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2013 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
2011 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
2016 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2021 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2018 Lexus LX570V8-5.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Lexus LX570 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Lexus mechanics

Real customer reviews from Lexus owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(14)

Rating Summary
13
1
0
0
0
13
1
0
0
0

Theodore

16 years of experience
1601 reviews
Theodore
16 years of experience
Lexus LX570 V8-5.7L - Oil Change - Woodinville, Washington
Theo has been doing maintenance on my cars now for several years. Reliable, friendly and getting serviced at home is so much easier than finding time to go to the dealer!

Tyler

27 years of experience
178 reviews
Tyler
27 years of experience
Lexus LX570 V8-5.7L - Oil Change - League City, Texas
Prompt , Couteous, and knowledgeable. Very hard working and diligent.

Breck

20 years of experience
681 reviews
Breck
20 years of experience
Lexus LX570 V8-5.7L - Gears slipping when accelerating - Houston, Texas
Breck was great! On-time, professional, friendly and very thorough. He was knowledgeable and quickly assessed my vehicle issues. He took time to explain to me both what he found and what repairs were needed.

Willie

24 years of experience
116 reviews
Willie
24 years of experience
Lexus LX570 V8-5.7L - Brake Pads Replacement (Rear) - Huntington Beach, California
Awesome experience. Willie is the most honest mechanic I’ve met. I was told by a dealer that I needed more service than what Willie assessed. He saved me money, which is not the usual experience with a mechanic. He was on time and got the work done in a timely fashion. Highly recommended!!!

Excellent Rating

(14)

Rating Summary
13
1
0
0
0
13
1
0
0
0
Number of Lexus LX570 services completed
154+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Lexus MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Horn Relay
If the horn makes no sound or sounds different, or if you cannot hear a click from the relay when the horn is pressed, replace the horn relay.
How to Remove a Name From a Car Title
A A car’s certificate of title (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-get-a-car-replacement-title) is proof of who has legal ownership of the vehicle. Every vehicle on the road has a title. If there is a change in ownership for any reason, you will have to change...
P2667 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Shutoff Valve B Control Circuit High
P2667 means there is a problem with the fuel shut off valve usually after a rear end collision or other electrical issues or problem.

Key stuck in ignition of 2001 Mercedes-Benz ML320

Hello. Most of the time, this is caused by a bad battery in the car. If the battery is low then this will occur. I typically start by checking the battery and doing a load test. If the battery is...

Engine won't accelerate past 1000 RPM's

Your car is designed to limit the throttle opening when it detects a major failure in one of its systems. What has failed would not be known since the lights you have on could have been caused by hundreds of...

Jerking reaction

Hi There, If the hose is still leaking causing coolant to be lost and the vehicle continues to overheat, this could potentially result in a head gasket being damaged causing a cylinder misfire (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/engine-is-misfiring-inspection), which may cause the jerking reaction...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com