Ford F-250 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(123)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(123)

Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection Service

How much does a Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ford F-250 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1994 Ford F-250L6-4.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1975 Ford F-250V8-6.4LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1997 Ford F-250V8-5.4LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1981 Ford F-250L6-4.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1989 Ford F-250L6-4.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1968 Ford F-250V8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1993 Ford F-250V8-5.0LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1971 Ford F-250V8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Ford F-250 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection prices

Your car’s engine makes quite a racket. Some sounds are music to the ears like the exhaust note of a finely tuned V12. (Some manufacturers have resorted to placing speakers under the dash to simulate the sound.) On the other hand, some are cries for help, such as the jolt of a backfire, the snake-like hiss of a ruptured hose, or the incessant tapping of a defective lifter.

Common reasons for this to happen:

Here’s a guide to engine noises and some potential causes.

Whirring

Description: A vibrating or buzzing, much like the sound a window fan makes when turned on.

Cause: A whirring sound that changes in relation to engine speed could indicate trouble brewing under the hood. There are a myriad of possible causes, typically on belt driven accessories or the belt(s) themselves. Your mechanic will start by listening to the bearings of your alternator, idler, and tensioner pulleys. If no problem is found, the water pump is a likely culprit.

Hissing, Gurgling, and/or Sizzling

Description: Hissing sounds like air or steam escaping from a pipe or hose. Sizzling is like a slice of bacon in a hot griddle.

Cause: These three sounds often go hand-in-hand with an overheating engine. The hissing means your cooling system has possibly developed a leak. Gurgling sounds like a coffee pot percolating, and is the result of coolant boiling (which is abnormal in a properly operating system). Sizzling is the result of that coolant or oil landing on a heated engine component like, say, the exhaust manifold. The best course of action is to pull over as soon as safely possible, let the engine cool down and call a mechanic. If the car isn’t overheating but is still hissing, other possible maladies include a clogged exhaust and catalytic converter, but these are usually associated with more noticeable problems driving.

Loud Exhaust Note

Description: We are not talking about a throaty, grumbling, wonderfully musical exhaust note. No. We are talking about loud noises that occur unintentionally and suddenly.

Cause: The most likely perpetrator here will be a broken muffler or exhaust pipe. If a loss in performance accompanies that noise, then the problem is likely something deeper, possibly a cracked exhaust manifold or broken catalytic converter.

Backfires

Description: A blast from an M-80. Technically, a backfire is fuel detonating outside the combustion chamber. It can occur in either the intake system or the exhaust system, depending on the cause.

Cause: The most common is moisture or water in the fuel system. While your car’s gas tank may be tightly sealed, H2O can still seep in as the result of condensation caused by changes in humidity and/or dramatic swings in outside temperatures. The fuel filter should remove it, but some water can get by, especially if the filter is old. An unbalanced air-to-fuel mixture is the suspect of interest here, and may be from leaky vacuum hoses or a malfunctioning air intake valve.

Sputtering

Description: Imagine a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. The engine indiscriminately loses power, or rpms fluctuate, as the driver accelerates.

Cause: An incomplete combustion event. While this doesn’t sound dire, it can cause serious damage to other engine components, specifically catalytic converters. On 1996 and later models, a misfire will typically be accompanied by a flashing check engine light.. Have the technician check the ignition system, not just simply replace the spark plugs. This includes examining the ignition coil, rotor, cap, and wires (if so equipped).

A blocked or malfunctioning fuel injector will also cause your car to sputter. In some cases, it may be accompanied by a steady clicking sound.

Tapping or Clicking

Description: Imagine the sound made by a watch's movement or a ratcheting wrench. It’s a metallic tick, as though someone is striking the inside of the engine block with a metal stick in a rhythmic manner.

Cause: When tapping is engine related, it is usually more pronounced at idle, and increases in speed with engine RPM.. It may disappear at high speeds. In this case, it is probably upper valve train or tappet noise caused by either low oil pressure, excessive valve clearance or a defective hydraulic valve lifter.

The most common cause -- and easiest to remedy -- is that the engine is low on oil. Another answer is that there is some blockage in the system. Culprits could include a worn or damaged oil pump or a clogged oil filter. If you haven't had your oil and filter changed in a while, consider doing so immediately.

If it's not an oil issue, it's potentially related to the valve train, as we stated above; i.e., a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valve train components.

Spark Knocking (Preignition)

Description: A light, metallic knocking sound, usually under acceleration.

Cause: Knocking is most commonly attributed to improper ignition timing, lean air/fuel ratio, overheating, or improper fuel octane level.

It's a common misconception that there are benefits to using a higher-octane gasoline in your vehicle than the owner's manual specifies; however, using a lower-grade fuel can very well produce engine knock.

Bearing Knock

Description: Bearing knock is typically a deeper tone, directly related to engine RPM.

Cause: It is typically associated with excessive main bearing clearance (a regular, rumble-like knock), worn connecting rod bearings (sharp, irregular knock).Bearing knocks usually involve labor-intensive repairs. The good news is, regularly performed preventative maintenance (oil and filter changes) will typically prevent bearing damage from occurring for the life of your vehicle.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the engine or exhaust noise, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will typically begin by listening to identify the general source of the noise. In the case of potential belt or accessory noise, a stethoscope is used while the engine is running to listen to individual bearings under load. A noise that has a corresponding drivability concern (misfire, preignition), will usually be approached with a scanner or code reader, to determine which electrical system may be malfunctioning. Internal engine noises (knock, tick) will almost always begin by checking the engine oil level. If the oil level and condition are acceptable, a more extensive disassembly may be required.

How important is this service?

Given that a noise can indicate a minor or major issue, it's wise to book a mechanic to perform an inspection as soon as possible and learn promptly what's at the root of the engine or exhaust noise.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ford mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ford owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(123)

Rating Summary
114
4
0
1
4
114
4
0
1
4

Josh

24 years of experience
64 reviews
Josh
24 years of experience
Ford F-250 V8-5.4L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Sahuarita, Arizona
Great experience

Will

12 years of experience
49 reviews
Will
12 years of experience
Ford F-250 V8-7.3L Turbo Diesel - Noise from engine or exhaust - Phoenix, Arizona
Will is a top-notch mechanic and even better person. I will continue to hire him anytime I need a vehicle repaired.

Jay

37 years of experience
956 reviews
Jay
37 years of experience
Ford F-250 V8-7.5L - Turn Signal Switch - Upland, California
Yes jay was very hard working and does the job right

Jerome

24 years of experience
415 reviews
Jerome
24 years of experience
Ford F-250 V8-6.4L - Ignition Lock Cylinder - Dundalk, Maryland
Jerome was a pleasure to work with. He contacted me before the appointment to clarify the problem and what work was needed. There were some challenges with the work site and the job. A top-notch trouble shooter, he didn't let them get in the way. I'm a very satisfied customer! Would definitely use him again.

Excellent Rating

(123)

Rating Summary
114
4
0
1
4
114
4
0
1
4
Number of Ford F-250 services completed
1353+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ford MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Buy a Good Quality Deer Warning Whistle
While While you might think that other drivers and obstacles in the road are the largest threats to your safety and that of your passengers, the fact remains that wildlife must also be considered. Deer are probably the most worrisome...
How to Buy a Car From an Individual
Part Part 1 of 6: What is a “private party?” If you’re in the market for a used car (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-buy-a-used-car), you can chose to go to a dealership or buy a car from a private party. Buying from a private...
The Guide to Right-of-Way Laws in Maryland
Right-of-way Right-of-way laws are in place to provide people with the guidance they need to know how to react in the presence of other drivers or pedestrians. They determine who should have the right of way, and who should yield...

I have water and fuel in my oil

You most likely have a coolant leak into the engine through an intake or a head gasket leaking. If you have water in the oil it may damage the crankshaft bearings if ran too long with the water in the...

Just rebuilt the transmission and after picking up the car it's making a vibration . 2006 Acura TL

Hi there - a key question in resolving a vibration issue (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-engine-mount) is "Is the vibration related to vehicle speed, or engine speed?". If the vibration comes from the engine, even if the car is not moving, there could be...

Cause of steering wheel vibration at 40

If you are getting a braking vibration that seems to be present above 40 mph when braking is most likely the front rotors are slightly warped. As the warpage gets worse then the pulsation will be felt at even slower...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com