Ford F-250 HD Battery is dead Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(12)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(12)

Battery is dead Inspection Service

How much does a Battery is dead Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ford F-250 HD Battery is dead Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1997 Ford F-250 HDV8-7.3L Turbo DieselService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1997 Ford F-250 HDV8-5.8LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1997 Ford F-250 HDV8-7.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example Ford F-250 HD Battery is dead Inspection prices

While your engine is mechanical, it needs electricity to operate. Electric spark is used to ignite fuel in the combustion chamber, turning the engine over. While the alternator provides the electricity necessary to run the car during operation, the battery is responsible for cranking the car. If your battery is dead, then the car won’t start and you’re essentially dead in the water.

How this system works:

Car batteries are crucial things – they’re responsible for providing the charge to turn over the ignition and crank the engine. Batteries operate based on a chemical reaction – acid and lead in the battery create a chemical reaction, which is then turned into an electric charge and stored in charging plates within the battery itself.

When you turn the ignition switch, several things happen, but all of them require voltage from the battery. When the ignition is switched to on, electricity is sent to the main relay, and from there to the fuel pump (which sends gasoline to the engine for ignition), and the car’s computer. The battery also produces electricity to feed the spark plugs, which ignite the fuel, and turn your car’s starter, which is responsible for actually turning the engine over and essentially jump-starting the combustion process. If your battery is dead, none of those things will happen. Depending on the amount of “juice” left in the battery, you may have just enough power to turn on a few dash lights, or you may not even have enough for that.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Dead Battery: Batteries have a finite lifespan. Most last five years or so, while other batteries are heavy-duty and rated for more than this. All will eventually die and need to be replaced. This is a normal part of vehicle maintenance, and your battery, starter and alternator should be tested regularly to ensure that you’re not stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.

  • Car Lights Left On: With the advent of smarter automotive technology, this has become rarer, but it still occurs. If your car’s lights don’t have an automatic shutoff feature, they’ll stay on unless you physically turn them off. If this happens and the engine isn’t running, they’ll pull power straight from the battery, eventually killing it.

  • Door Not Fully Closed: If your door is open, then the dome light will be on, and other interior lights may also be on. These lights draw their power from the battery if the engine isn’t running, and can quickly drain a battery.

  • Dead Alternator: The alternator produces electricity while the engine is running, and is responsible for providing all the power needed for your engine, your accessories, and to recharge the battery. If the alternator dies, it won’t charge the battery, and all the power needs of your vehicle will come straight from the battery. Eventually, this will drain it completely, leaving you stranded.

  • Bad Starter: It might not be the battery that’s the problem – if your starter has turned its last, your car won’t crank either. Again, regular maintenance can help predict starter failure.

  • Failed Main Relay: Sometimes, everything in the charging system is perfectly fine, but your car still won’t crank. In this instance, the first suspect should be the main relay, since it controls the fuel pump and the car’s computer.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to check the condition of your battery, starter, alternator and other important components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will first check the charge on your battery to determine if it is actually dead (bad cell), or if it only needs to be recharged. A jump-start may be all that is required. The mechanic will also check the alternator, starter and other important components to ensure that you can get back on the road safely.

How important is this service?

If your battery is dead, you’re going nowhere fast. The best protection against this is to have your battery, starter and alternator inspected regularly. However, if you’ve been stranded with a dead battery, one of our professional mechanics can help.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ford mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ford owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(12)

Rating Summary
10
1
0
0
1
10
1
0
0
1

Robert

20 years of experience
1126 reviews
Robert
20 years of experience
Ford F-250 HD V8-7.3L Turbo Diesel - Bleed Brakes - Denver, Colorado
After he left,I took truck for a drive, still felt a little squishy on the peddle, took his advise went to a parking lot and did some break adjusting, I did notice a trail of break fluid for about 20 to 30 feet, I plan on a road test in the morning.

Scott

34 years of experience
560 reviews
Scott
34 years of experience
Ford F-250 HD V8-7.5L - Alternator Belt - Arvada, Colorado
On time and quick.

Cesar

9 years of experience
292 reviews
Cesar
9 years of experience
Ford F-250 HD V8-7.5L - Battery - Monroe, Washington
Thank you

Edgar

14 years of experience
38 reviews
Edgar
14 years of experience
Ford F-250 HD V8-5.8L - Distributor - New Milford, New Jersey
He did a great job. On time and got my truck fixed in no time. Highly recommend Edgar .

Excellent Rating

(12)

Rating Summary
10
1
0
0
1
10
1
0
0
1
Number of Ford F-250 HD services completed
132+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ford MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer's Guide to the 2012 Lexus IS
If If you haven’t heard of the 2012 Lexus IS, you’re not alone. This sports sedan is incredibly underappreciated. However, that doesn’t mean it’s not worth considering for your next car. Key Features The 2012 Lexus IS can be purchased...
How to Troubleshoot a Bouncy or Unstable Car
A bouncy or unstable car can be caused by faulty struts, tie rod ends, or brakes. Test your car to avoid suspension damage and costly repairs.
How to Troubleshoot a Car That Has Extra Bounce or Sway
Bounce or sway while driving a car can be caused by faulty struts, shocks, or worn out tires. Check and inflate car tires to begin the diagnosis.

Car will not start but the dash lights turn on.

Often when a battery has a bad/damaged cell internally, it may not accept a jump start. The easiest thing to do would be to replace the battery (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/battery-replacement) with a known good battery, whether temporarily swapping one from another vehicle...

Stiff steering wheel and gas pedal, engine shudder

Hello. The power steering pump (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/power-steering-pump-replacement), power steering lines, and/or steering gear could be faulty or have a leak. The problem you are having with your accelerator pedal being hard to press could be due to a throttle cable that...

Bad mileage on 2012 mazda 2

In order to check the fuel mileage you should drive as if you are trying to save every drop of fuel. The mileage rating is based on not running the a/c and driving mostly highway miles to get the mileage...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com