Audi 100 Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,458)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,458)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi 100 Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1989 Audi 100L5-2.3LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
1990 Audi 100L5-2.3LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1993 Audi 100V6-2.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1991 Audi 100L5-2.3LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
1994 Audi 100V6-2.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
1992 Audi 100V6-2.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
Show example Audi 100 Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,458)

Rating Summary
2,279
87
19
12
61
2,279
87
19
12
61

Bereketeab

7 years of experience
110 reviews
Bereketeab
7 years of experience
Audi 100 V6-2.8L - Spark Plugs - Sacramento, California
Goes above and beyond, helped save my coil pack when a plug wire was stuck in it. He didn't give up and got it out and finished the job.

Frank

8 years of experience
130 reviews
Frank
8 years of experience
Audi 100 V6-2.8L - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Chicago, Illinois
Frank was great - kept me informed and performed a solid inspection of a vintage car that I was purchasing 800 miles from home.

Chris

22 years of experience
2263 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Audi Q5 L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Irvine, California
Very good

Hiram

25 years of experience
55 reviews
Hiram
25 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-2.0L Turbo - Brake Pads Replacement (Front, Rear) - Cypress, Texas
Highly recommended! A plus!

Excellent Rating

(2,458)

Rating Summary
2,279
87
19
12
61
2,279
87
19
12
61
Number of Audi services completed
27038+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P2420 OBD-II Trouble Code: Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Switching Valve Control Circuit High
P2420 P2420 code definition Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Switching Valve Control Circuit High What the P2420 code means The P2420 trouble code indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected a malfunction within the switching control circuit of the EVAP...
Disabled Driver Laws and Permits in Colorado
Colorado Colorado offers several options for drivers with disabilities. These include short-term, long-term, and permanent placards, and permanent license plates, all of which entitle you to certain parking privileges. How do I know if I am eligible for a placard...
How to Use Apple CarPlay
Apple’s CarPlay gives you a new, safe way to use your phone while driving — without taking your eyes off the road.

Stalling

Hi there: The EVAP system is comprised of multiple components. Although the gas cap removal is the easiest job to complete and the source of many of these problems, another common issue is caused by the EVAP vent solenoid (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-evaporation-vent-solenoid)....

Vapor canister purge valve has a loud tick? Very rough idle upon starting after a refueling.

Hey there. The purge valve ticking noise is most likely normal and should not be noticed inside the cab when the windows are up. If it is too loud inside the cab, then have the valve replaced. The purge valve...

Myride

If you are taking off the manifold then a new gasket should be used or an exhaust manifold leak may happen after reconnected.

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com