Volvo 850 Car is making a noise Inspection at your home or office.

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Car is making a noise Inspection Service

How much does a Car is making a noise Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Volvo 850 Car is making a noise Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1995 Volvo 850L5-2.4LService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1997 Volvo 850L5-2.4L TurboService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1993 Volvo 850L5-2.4LService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1994 Volvo 850L5-2.3L TurboService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1996 Volvo 850L5-2.4LService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1995 Volvo 850L5-2.3L TurboService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1996 Volvo 850L5-2.3L TurboService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1997 Volvo 850L5-2.3L TurboService typeCar is making a noise InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Volvo 850 Car is making a noise Inspection prices

Over time, you come to know your car’s standard sounds from driving it on a regular basis. So, when new noises arise, they can be alarming.

Common reasons for this to happen:

The first step in identifying the cause of a noise involves pinpointing its location. Here are the most common and concerning noises that cars make -- along with conditions that often create them -- according to their location within the car.

Under the Hood:

  • Belts and pulleys: If there is a screeching noise with a repetitive tone, it may indicate the serpentine belt is worn or the engine pulley that drives the belt is freezing up. This belt is responsible for providing power to multiple systems in your car, including the air conditioning compressor, alternator, power steering pump, water pump, and radiator fan. Belt noises are usually quickly identified and typically vary with engine speed.

  • Hoses: There are a host of different hoses beneath your hood, which can develop holes or cracks over time and affect your engine’s performance. If you can hear a hissing noise or see coolant beneath the front of your car, a worn hose is the likely culprit. The mechanic will carefully trace any liquids to the source or listen for the escaping of air until they can identify the source of the problem.

  • Internal engine parts: If you hear a tapping or metallic slap, there may be an issue with the way your engine is rotating parts. Possible causes are low motor oil levels or an issue with timing or engine calibration. If you suspect an internal engine noise, it is wise to have the vehicle inspected by one of our expert technicians as soon as possible.

Under the Car:

  • Brakes and wheels: If a high-pitched squealing is present, the brake pads are likely in need of replacement. A deeper growling or grinding noise usually indicates pads that are past due for replacement, and may require more parts and labor than a standard brake job.

  • Exhaust system: When a clanking noise is present beneath your car, or its normal running noise is significantly louder, there is potentially an issue with your exhaust system. The mechanic will review the individual pieces of the system from the tailpipe to the front and check that all clamps are secure with a bit of space from the chassis to identify the source of the noise.

  • Suspension system: This system is made up of many moving parts, bushings, and joints that can produce irregular clunking noises when any part becomes worn. To verify there is an issue with your suspension system, the mechanic will inspect the entirety of the system, which will usually involve lifting the car.

Outside the Car:

  • Aerodynamic interference: Over time, parts on your exterior can loosen or become caked in debris, ultimately resulting in odd noises that often resemble a low rumble or whir. The sound is often intermittent, increasing with speed and sometimes stopping entirely. Frequent culprits are the heat shield and the dust shield, although just about any part of your car’s body could be the cause.

  • Tires: If there is a humming sound that consistently increases with acceleration and stops when your car is not in motion, your tires may be responsible. A quick check of the condition of tread, as well as the tread depth itself, may reveal the issue in short order.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the noise, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How important is this service?

It depends on the cause of the noise. Given the number of variables outlined above, costs can vary quite a bit. If the oil is dangerously low, for example, that could lead to significant engine damage if not addressed immediately. By taking care of the issue expeditiously, you may save yourself a bundle down the road before whatever is at the root of the sound worsens. Book a mechanic to perform a thorough inspection as soon as possible.

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Meet some of our expert Volvo mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volvo owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(45)

Rating Summary
42
2
0
1
0
42
2
0
1
0

Ben

41 years of experience
1416 reviews
Ben
41 years of experience
Volvo 850 L5-2.4L - Car is making a noise - Houston, Texas
excellent mechanic

Andrew

15 years of experience
506 reviews
Andrew
15 years of experience
Volvo 850 L5-2.3L Turbo - Car is not starting - Portland, Oregon
Excellent servicing.

Chris

22 years of experience
2229 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Volvo 850 L5-2.4L - Fuel Pump - Tustin, California
This is the third time that I've had Chris work on my car, and every time he's saved me a ton of money, was on-time, or early, and was super fast. I've recommended him to my mom, and he saved her a bunch of money too. I recommend him to anyone who needs work done. He doesn't waste time and he gets the job done with what is obvious years of experience.

Travis

13 years of experience
582 reviews
Travis
13 years of experience
Volvo 850 L5-2.4L - Strut Assembly Replacement (Front) - Minneapolis, Minnesota
Prompt, did everything necessary within less time than expected, professional

Excellent Rating

(45)

Rating Summary
42
2
0
1
0
42
2
0
1
0
Number of Volvo 850 services completed
495+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volvo MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

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I just replaced the rear [struts](/topics-strut/) on my 98 [camry](/topics-camry/), they were monroe quick struts and I replaced them with the same, the old ones were around 8 years old and the suspension needed replacing, i just finished installing everything, i torqued everything to proper spec except the upper mount inside the car, can't get a torque wrench in there because its so tight and can't use a socket to tighten, had to use a combination wrench but I did get them tight, originally after installing before driving I heard squeaks when depressing the suspension but I wasn't so worried about that because they're brand new and haven't been depressed before, now after driving around the neighborhood with windows open listening for sounds I strained to hear anything but there wasn't anything over the sound of the car. After parking I hear a clunking sound after depressing one side of the car. I also replaced the stabilizer end links and the stabilizer bushings, the end links were really difficult to tighten, especially with a torque wrench but theyre at least at 25 ft/lbs which is the spec I found online, kind of concerned about that as well because I found a one off quote for the spec at 60 ft/lbs which I don't think is likely to be correct because in order to tighten you've got to grab this tiny round bolt housing on the ball joint in order to tighten and the tighter you want to get the tighter you need to squeeze on the round housing. Finally I'm a little concerned the stabilizer bar isn't centered, i mean it seems that way and it was difficult to get the clips around the new bushing back on, as in they really only fit one way and it was tough getting them threaded in the first place without a bunch of adjustment. I'm wondering what that clunking sound is, how to diagnose it, how to fix it, and anything else that could be an issue after the replacement.

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