Volkswagen Golf Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(258)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(258)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Volkswagen Golf Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1988 Volkswagen GolfL4-1.6L DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2011 Volkswagen GolfL4-2.0L Turbo DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2003 Volkswagen GolfL4-2.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1995 Volkswagen GolfL4-1.9L Turbo DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1994 Volkswagen GolfL4-2.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2011 Volkswagen GolfL5-2.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1996 Volkswagen GolfL4-1.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1996 Volkswagen GolfL4-2.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Volkswagen Golf Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Volkswagen mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volkswagen owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(258)

Rating Summary
244
7
3
0
4
244
7
3
0
4

Jason

23 years of experience
20 reviews
Jason
23 years of experience
Volkswagen Golf L4-1.9L Turbo Diesel - Transmission Speed Sensor - San Rafael, California
Jason was very knowledgeable and did a great job. Will request him again! Thanks!

Rusty

23 years of experience
517 reviews
Rusty
23 years of experience
Volkswagen Golf L4-2.0L - Ignition Switch - Bedford, Texas
,,,very professional and comfortable in what he does,,,i would recommend him

Cornelius

18 years of experience
101 reviews
Cornelius
18 years of experience
Volkswagen Golf L4-2.0L - Loud squealing or rattling is coming from engine - Mableton, Georgia
Always on time, professional, knowledgeable, and efficient. We've had him out three times now, twice to diagnose/fix our old beater and once to inspect our new (used) car before we bought it. Always a pleasure to work with.

Tien

23 years of experience
903 reviews
Tien
23 years of experience
Volkswagen Golf L4-2.0L - Crankshaft Position Sensor - San Leandro, California
Tien arrived 45 minute earlier than the appointment time and it worked out fine for me since I was off work and sitting at home waiting anyway. Tien is friendly and courteous. He switched out the faulty sensor with a brand new one in 45 minutes and tested for success. He also did some routine checks for my car to ensure everything was ok. Tien gave me some car maintenance advice and told me what parts of my old car I need to pay attention in the near future. This is my 2nd time using Yourmechanic.com and so far it has provided excellent service to me and my car.

Excellent Rating

(258)

Rating Summary
244
7
3
0
4
244
7
3
0
4
Number of Volkswagen Golf services completed
2838+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volkswagen MECHANICS
1000+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0032 OBD-II Trouble Code: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0032 trouble code definition P0032 is the code for HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1) What the P0032 code...
P0795 OBD-II Trouble Code: Pressure Control Solenoid C
P0795 means that a fault with the electronic pressure control solenoid, or the solenoid circuit, has occurred due to a faulty solenoid, or low fluid.
How to Replace a Cylinder Head Coolant Temperature Sensor
Signs of coolant temperature sensor failures include sluggish acceleration, hard starting, and a Check Engine or Service Engine Soon Light.

Brake light coming on.

Brake lights that come on intermittently are likely caused by a faulty or misadjusted brake switch (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/brake-light-switch-replacement). The problem could also be caused by a short in the brake light wiring. A trained technician, like one from YourMechanic, will be...

Possible valve seat loose

The valve seat is a part of the cylinder head and can not come loose. It is possible to have a broken spring, bent pushrod, or maladjusted rocker arm. This is all work that is associated with the repair you...

can i use synthetic oil on a 2005 suzuki aerio?

The truth couldn't be more opposite to what you were told. In fact synthetic oil is so good, Suzuki promotes its own brand of synthetic oil (http://www.globalsuzuki.com/after_sales/ecstar/index.html) for use in Suzuki motor vehicles. Synthetic oil is highly preferred in all...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com