Mercedes-Benz C400 Control Arm Assembly Replacement Costs

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

See availability

Customer Ratings

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz C400 Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $300 with $90 for parts and $210 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

Car	Service	Estimate	Shop/Dealer Price
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right Replacement	Estimate$678.74	Shop/Dealer Price$799.75 - $1141.52
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right Replacement	Estimate$928.66	Shop/Dealer Price$1097.58 - $1590.61
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right Replacement	Estimate$1173.49	Shop/Dealer Price$1416.99 - $2136.53
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left Replacement	Estimate$398.69	Shop/Dealer Price$448.49 - $586.92
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right Replacement	Estimate$399.31	Shop/Dealer Price$453.13 - $594.93
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left Replacement	Estimate$665.23	Shop/Dealer Price$782.03 - $1120.65
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left Replacement	Estimate$886.62	Shop/Dealer Price$1055.13 - $1548.84
2015 Mercedes-Benz C400V6-3.0L Turbo	Service typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left Replacement	Estimate$1173.49	Shop/Dealer Price$1416.99 - $2136.52

Show example Mercedes-Benz C400 Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee

Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(28)

Rating Summary

26

2

0

0

0

26

2

0

0

0

SEE REVIEWS NEAR ME

Nazareth

28 years of experience

345 reviews

Request Nazareth

Nazareth

28 years of experience

Request Nazareth

by Colin

Mercedes-Benz C400 V6-3.0L Turbo - Car Battery Replacement - Glendora, California

He was very fast and his prices are extremely reasonable

Charles

35 years of experience

342 reviews

Request Charles

Charles

35 years of experience

Request Charles

by Varun

Mercedes-Benz C400 V6-3.0L Turbo - Back To School Promo - Austin, Texas

He has done a great job in the timely manner. I would definitely recommend him.

Sayeed

18 years of experience

82 reviews

Sayeed

18 years of experience

by Barbara

Mercedes-Benz C230 L4-1.8L Turbo - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Right) - Elmont, New York

Did a Great Job, im very satisfied.

Luis

16 years of experience

244 reviews

Luis

16 years of experience

by Rene

Mercedes-Benz C280 V6-3.0L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Upper Left, Front Upper Right) - Burbank, California

Was on time and did the repairs in a timely manner. Very friendly and pleasant.

Excellent Rating

(28)

Rating Summary

26

2

0

0

0

26

2

0

0

0

SEE REVIEWS NEAR ME

Recent articles & questions

How to Replace a Headlight That Has Burned Out

From From time to time, some parts on your car may need to be replaced, and that includes the bulbs in the headlights. While you may perform regular checkups and maintenance on your car’s engine, brakes and tires, you may...

B1999 OBD-II Trouble Code: Passenger Side Side-Mount Air Bag Low Resistance on Squib

B1999 trouble code means there's a circuit malfunction in the passenger side-mount air bag inflator, caused by blown fuses or shorted wires.

The Best Used Cars to Buy for Families

If If it’s time for you to search for the top used cars specifically for families, check out the list we’ve put together of the top five. The list of must-haves Typical items that families are looking for in their...

Won't crank.

Depending on if you overheated the engine and it still has the cracked radiator, then you may have more than one problem. You may have a problem with the crankshaft sensor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-crankshaft-position-sensor) if you are not getting spark. You said...

dirty windshield & grill after a road trip

Although bird droppings and smashed highway bugs (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-remove-bugs-from-your-car-by-jason-unrau) might not seam like a big deal, it can do end up doing serious damage to the paint of the car costing hundreds of dollars in repairs. Because bugs and bird droppings...

my heat gauge goes up when idling then comes back down when driving

It sounds as though you are probably having an issue with the cooling fan(s) (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-is-overheating-inspection). The primary function for the cooling fan(s) is to push/pull air through the radiator at low speeds, or at a stand still. When stationary, there...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com