BMW 335i Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(230)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(230)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 335i Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2015 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
2014 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2008 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2009 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
2011 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
2007 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2010 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
2013 BMW 335iL6-3.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.94 - $131.39
Show example BMW 335i Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(230)

Rating Summary
220
3
2
0
5
220
3
2
0
5

Matthew

11 years of experience
53 reviews
Matthew
11 years of experience
BMW 335i L6-3.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Inglewood, California
Although Matthew arrived 30 minutes late from a previous job, he quickly impressed with his knowledge of my car which is very important to me. He was very personable and answered all questions i had. I definitely recommend Matthew and plan to request him for my next service needs.

Joel

21 years of experience
987 reviews
Joel
21 years of experience
BMW 335i L6-3.0L Turbo - Ignition Coil - Jacksonville, Florida
great guy!! funny..very professional when it comes to his job.....he knows what his doing...and he explained well to me any questioned i ask....thanks J!!

Christopher

27 years of experience
347 reviews
Christopher
27 years of experience
BMW 335i L6-3.0L Turbo - Headlight is not working - Tampa, Florida

Russell

27 years of experience
271 reviews
Russell
27 years of experience
BMW 335i L6-3.0L Turbo - Coolant Reservoir - San Ramon, California
Would definitely recommend Russell who was professional and engaging when you are asking question. Russel was knowledgeable and was able to replace the coolant resovoir in under an hour.

Excellent Rating

(230)

Rating Summary
220
3
2
0
5
220
3
2
0
5
Number of BMW 335i services completed
2530+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Much Does the AC Affect Fuel Mileage
Your car’s air conditioner is an important accessory – it helps keep you and your passengers comfortable and...
P2005 OBD-II Trouble Code: Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 2
P2005 P2005 trouble code definition P2005 is a general OBD2 trouble code that indicates a malfunction with the intake manifold runner control circuit. This code is similar to P2006, P2007, P2008, P2009, P2010, P2013 and P2015. What the P2005 code...
B1901 OBD-II Trouble Code: Air Bag Crash Sensor #1 Feed/Return Circuit Short to Ground
B1901 means there is a circuit error with the air bag crash sensor #1, likely due to damaged electrical components or a bad sensor.

Keep stalling when I slow down or shift gears

Engine stalling is typically caused by fuel or ignition system problems and/or faults in the air induction system (including vacuum leaks) and engine management sensors. If you request an engine stalling diagnostic (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-is-stalling-inspection), the responding mechanic will go through a...

Car does not start

It sounds like you may have a fuel supply problem in getting the proper amount of fuel to the fuel injectors which may be caused by a bad fuel pump (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/fuel-pump-replacement) or potentially faulty fuel injectors (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/fuel-injector-replacement). This can happen...

Hello. I just had my battery replaced but today all lights go on but car won't start

It sounds like you may have a weak battery, a failing voltage regulator or failing alternator. As you may know, the alternator charges the battery while the engine runs by generating amperage and recharging the battery while the engine turns...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com