BMW 128i Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(101)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(101)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 128i Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $189 with $49 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2012 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$476.08Shop/Dealer Price$556.16 - $779.39
2013 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$448.95Shop/Dealer Price$521.24 - $729.45
2012 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$448.95Shop/Dealer Price$521.29 - $729.54
2012 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$273.03Shop/Dealer Price$301.39 - $377.69
2011 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$448.95Shop/Dealer Price$524.38 - $734.95
2009 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$448.95Shop/Dealer Price$521.58 - $730.05
2010 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$419.75Shop/Dealer Price$491.47 - $699.25
2010 BMW 128iL6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$419.75Shop/Dealer Price$491.44 - $699.20
Show example BMW 128i Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(101)

Rating Summary
94
5
1
0
1
94
5
1
0
1

Sebastian

6 years of experience
254 reviews
Sebastian
6 years of experience
BMW 128i L6-3.0L - Oil Change - Boca Raton, Florida
This was an amazing experience! Sebastian was extremely professional, courteous, knowledgeable, & really knows his way around a BMW! Very refreshing. We will be definitely be calling on Sebastian again for our BMW’s!

Kyle

38 years of experience
5 reviews
Kyle
38 years of experience
BMW 128i L6-3.0L - Thermostat - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
He was on time, friendly, knowledgeable, and efficient.

Kyle

38 years of experience
5 reviews
Kyle
38 years of experience
BMW 128i L6-3.0L - Brake System Inspection - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Friendly, honest, and knowledgeable.

Joseph

18 years of experience
107 reviews
Joseph
18 years of experience
BMW 128i L6-3.0L - Car is not starting - Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Joe did a great job diagnosing the problem and getting the car started! I would recommend him again!

Excellent Rating

(101)

Rating Summary
94
5
1
0
1
94
5
1
0
1
Number of BMW 128i services completed
1111+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1200+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Ford Escape
CUVs CUVs (Crossover utility vehicles) are becoming more and more popular these days, as consumers are interested in saving money and buying more eco-friendly vehicles but they still have a lot of people and cargo to move around. CUVs like...
P0020 OBD-II Trouble Code: Camshaft Position (A) Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0020 P0020 code definition Camshaft Position (A) Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) What the P0020 code means P0020 is the OBD-II generic code indicating that the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the bank 2 intake camshaft Oil Control Valve...
How to Replace a Cylinder Head Coolant Temperature Sensor
Signs of coolant temperature sensor failures include sluggish acceleration, hard starting, and a Check Engine or Service Engine Soon Light.

Engine knock

Based on the sound heard in your video, I believe you have damaged some of the valve train parts. If this happened during the engine dying, it is very possible that something has broken on the inside of the engine....

low beams keep going out

You may have a low voltage condition getting to the low beam circuit of the headlights and causing them to burn out early. Check the low beam relay to see if it is giving battery voltage at each headlight socket...

O/d light blinking car wont accelerate

Hi Valerie. Thanks for contacting us tonight. When you have electrical fuses that continually blow, it means you have an electrical short or an open electrical relay that is the root issue. The best way to determine where the fault...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com