Audi A3 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(149)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(149)

Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection Service

How much does a Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi A3 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2011 Audi A3L4-2.0L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
2016 Audi A3L4-1.8L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2009 Audi A3L4-2.0L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2013 Audi A3L4-2.0L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
2010 Audi A3L4-2.0L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
2013 Audi A3L4-2.0L Turbo DieselService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2008 Audi A3L4-2.0L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
2006 Audi A3L4-2.0L TurboService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.94 - $131.39
Show example Audi A3 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection prices

Your car’s engine makes quite a racket. Some sounds are music to the ears like the exhaust note of a finely tuned V12. (Some manufacturers have resorted to placing speakers under the dash to simulate the sound.) On the other hand, some are cries for help, such as the jolt of a backfire, the snake-like hiss of a ruptured hose, or the incessant tapping of a defective lifter.

Common reasons for this to happen:

Here’s a guide to engine noises and some potential causes.

Whirring

Description: A vibrating or buzzing, much like the sound a window fan makes when turned on.

Cause: A whirring sound that changes in relation to engine speed could indicate trouble brewing under the hood. There are a myriad of possible causes, typically on belt driven accessories or the belt(s) themselves. Your mechanic will start by listening to the bearings of your alternator, idler, and tensioner pulleys. If no problem is found, the water pump is a likely culprit.

Hissing, Gurgling, and/or Sizzling

Description: Hissing sounds like air or steam escaping from a pipe or hose. Sizzling is like a slice of bacon in a hot griddle.

Cause: These three sounds often go hand-in-hand with an overheating engine. The hissing means your cooling system has possibly developed a leak. Gurgling sounds like a coffee pot percolating, and is the result of coolant boiling (which is abnormal in a properly operating system). Sizzling is the result of that coolant or oil landing on a heated engine component like, say, the exhaust manifold. The best course of action is to pull over as soon as safely possible, let the engine cool down and call a mechanic. If the car isn’t overheating but is still hissing, other possible maladies include a clogged exhaust and catalytic converter, but these are usually associated with more noticeable problems driving.

Loud Exhaust Note

Description: We are not talking about a throaty, grumbling, wonderfully musical exhaust note. No. We are talking about loud noises that occur unintentionally and suddenly.

Cause: The most likely perpetrator here will be a broken muffler or exhaust pipe. If a loss in performance accompanies that noise, then the problem is likely something deeper, possibly a cracked exhaust manifold or broken catalytic converter.

Backfires

Description: A blast from an M-80. Technically, a backfire is fuel detonating outside the combustion chamber. It can occur in either the intake system or the exhaust system, depending on the cause.

Cause: The most common is moisture or water in the fuel system. While your car’s gas tank may be tightly sealed, H2O can still seep in as the result of condensation caused by changes in humidity and/or dramatic swings in outside temperatures. The fuel filter should remove it, but some water can get by, especially if the filter is old. An unbalanced air-to-fuel mixture is the suspect of interest here, and may be from leaky vacuum hoses or a malfunctioning air intake valve.

Sputtering

Description: Imagine a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. The engine indiscriminately loses power, or rpms fluctuate, as the driver accelerates.

Cause: An incomplete combustion event. While this doesn’t sound dire, it can cause serious damage to other engine components, specifically catalytic converters. On 1996 and later models, a misfire will typically be accompanied by a flashing check engine light.. Have the technician check the ignition system, not just simply replace the spark plugs. This includes examining the ignition coil, rotor, cap, and wires (if so equipped).

A blocked or malfunctioning fuel injector will also cause your car to sputter. In some cases, it may be accompanied by a steady clicking sound.

Tapping or Clicking

Description: Imagine the sound made by a watch's movement or a ratcheting wrench. It’s a metallic tick, as though someone is striking the inside of the engine block with a metal stick in a rhythmic manner.

Cause: When tapping is engine related, it is usually more pronounced at idle, and increases in speed with engine RPM.. It may disappear at high speeds. In this case, it is probably upper valve train or tappet noise caused by either low oil pressure, excessive valve clearance or a defective hydraulic valve lifter.

The most common cause -- and easiest to remedy -- is that the engine is low on oil. Another answer is that there is some blockage in the system. Culprits could include a worn or damaged oil pump or a clogged oil filter. If you haven't had your oil and filter changed in a while, consider doing so immediately.

If it's not an oil issue, it's potentially related to the valve train, as we stated above; i.e., a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valve train components.

Spark Knocking (Preignition)

Description: A light, metallic knocking sound, usually under acceleration.

Cause: Knocking is most commonly attributed to improper ignition timing, lean air/fuel ratio, overheating, or improper fuel octane level.

It's a common misconception that there are benefits to using a higher-octane gasoline in your vehicle than the owner's manual specifies; however, using a lower-grade fuel can very well produce engine knock.

Bearing Knock

Description: Bearing knock is typically a deeper tone, directly related to engine RPM.

Cause: It is typically associated with excessive main bearing clearance (a regular, rumble-like knock), worn connecting rod bearings (sharp, irregular knock).Bearing knocks usually involve labor-intensive repairs. The good news is, regularly performed preventative maintenance (oil and filter changes) will typically prevent bearing damage from occurring for the life of your vehicle.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the engine or exhaust noise, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will typically begin by listening to identify the general source of the noise. In the case of potential belt or accessory noise, a stethoscope is used while the engine is running to listen to individual bearings under load. A noise that has a corresponding drivability concern (misfire, preignition), will usually be approached with a scanner or code reader, to determine which electrical system may be malfunctioning. Internal engine noises (knock, tick) will almost always begin by checking the engine oil level. If the oil level and condition are acceptable, a more extensive disassembly may be required.

How important is this service?

Given that a noise can indicate a minor or major issue, it's wise to book a mechanic to perform an inspection as soon as possible and learn promptly what's at the root of the engine or exhaust noise.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(149)

Rating Summary
140
5
3
0
1
140
5
3
0
1

Joseph

20 years of experience
648 reviews
Joseph
20 years of experience
Audi A3 L4-2.0L Turbo - Noise from engine or exhaust - Salt Lake City, Utah
Great job

Dave

23 years of experience
303 reviews
Dave
23 years of experience
Audi A3 L4-2.0L Turbo - Thermostat - Cupertino, California
Dave showed up at the exact time and finished the complicated job in 2.5 hours. The coolant had to be emptied in order to fix the issue. He topped it up and warned me that it might need a little bit more water after driving a few miles. The coolant warning did come up and I topped it up and no more issues since then. The buggy temperature level / thermostat/check engine is no longer a problem and I should be able to pass smog now.

Robert

31 years of experience
641 reviews
Robert
31 years of experience
Audi A3 L4-2.0L Turbo - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Cupertino, California

Jason

32 years of experience
518 reviews
Jason
32 years of experience
Audi A3 L4-1.8L Turbo - Coolant is leaking - Palo Alto, California
Good information. Hope to work with on the replacement parts

Excellent Rating

(149)

Rating Summary
140
5
3
0
1
140
5
3
0
1
Number of Audi A3 services completed
1639+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Buy a Personalized License Plate in South Carolina
Personalized Personalized license plates are a great way to add a little flair and unique feel to your vehicle. A personalized plate allows you to choose the numbers and digits on your license plate, so that you can have your...
Master Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specifications
As an automotive technician, it is likely you will be expected to master the skill of using the right amount of torque to install lug nuts.
B1913 OBD-II Trouble Code: Air Bag Driver/Passenger Circuit Short to Ground
B1913 means there is a circuit error in the driver and front passenger airbags, likely due to damaged circuit or other electrical component.

car slows with acceleration

The hesitation may be a dirty throttle body (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/clean-throttle-body) or bad throttle position sensor (TPS) (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/throttle-position-sensor-replacement). If it drives better with OD off, I suggest leaving it off or having it diagnosed and repaired. It won't hurt anything to leave...

Hard starting after replacing fuel pump

The fuel pump replacement and the subsequent hard starting might be mere coincidence. A way to find out is to request a hard starting diagnostic (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-is-hard-to-start-inspection) during which the responding mechanic will inspect not only the fuel supply system, but...

I have a 1998 Caddy DeVille, has original muffler and catalytic converter. had to be tweaked to pass CA smog, replace both?

Hey Pete, thanks for writing in. The replacements have more to do with what is actually wrong with the vehicle. If they have been modified illegally, then the answer is an automatic yes. Not only does it cause issues with...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com