Audi 100 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,385)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(2,385)

Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement Service

How much does a Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi 100 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement is $729 with $453 for parts and $275 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1989 Audi 100L5-2.3LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1256.27Shop/Dealer Price$1537.73 - $2267.90
1991 Audi 100L5-2.3LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1628.89Shop/Dealer Price$2018.09 - $3071.29
1993 Audi 100V6-2.8LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1191.63Shop/Dealer Price$1470.89 - $2190.33
1994 Audi 100V6-2.8LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1191.63Shop/Dealer Price$1470.77 - $2190.12
1992 Audi 100V6-2.8LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1191.63Shop/Dealer Price$1470.97 - $2190.47
1990 Audi 100L5-2.3LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1628.89Shop/Dealer Price$2018.09 - $3071.28
Show example Audi 100 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement prices

What is the Front Crankshaft Seal all about?

A number of mechanisms must work together to make your vehicle move forward. One of the most important is the crankshaft, which converts rotary into linear motion; i.e., it transforms the force created by the engine's pistons moving up and down into a force that moves in a circular motion that causes a car’s wheel to turn. Enclosed in what’s called a crankcase—the largest cavity in the engine block, just below the cylinders—the crankshaft must be completely lubricated, essentially submerged in oil, to spin nearly friction-free and do its job properly.

Consequently, there are seals located at either end of the crankshaft that allow it to spin freely and keep engine oil from escaping the engine block, as well as prevent contaminants and other debris from entering and causing damage to the mechanism. Since there are two ends of the crankshaft, there are two types of seals: the front crankshaft seal and the rear crankshaft seal, also known as the front main and rear main seals.

Keep in mind:

  • Loss of oil will eventually cause serious internal engine damage.
  • Inspect the sealing surface of the crankshaft or the crankshaft pulley (depending on the engine design) for damage when replacing the crankshaft seal.
  • Oil degrades rubber components.

How it's done:

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands
  • The crankshaft damper and timing belt is removed
  • The crankshaft seal is removed and a new one installed
  • The timing belt and cover along with crankshaft damper is reinstalled
  • The engine accessory belts are installed and the vehicle is lowered off of the jack stands

Our recommendation:

One of the most important parts of your car, crankshaft seals are typically made from a durable material, such as a synthetic rubber or silicone, designed to handle the extreme pressure and temperatures as well as the caustic chemicals in your engine oil. Because they are exposed to such abuse, main seals are subject to a lot of wear and tear. And whether you are talking a front or rear main seal, replacement is the only cure when one malfunctions.

The good news is that the seals are relatively inexpensive components. The bad news is that neither is easy to replace.

Front seal: The front seal is located behind the main pulley that drives all the belts, which is, of course, always spinning. The main pulley throws any leaking oil out in a big circle. It can get thrown up on the alternator, steering pump, belts, in short anything attached to the front of the engine and cause a real mess and eventually some serious damage. Consequently, it has to be removed along with many of the components attached to the front of the block to replace the front main seal.

Rear seal: The rear crankshaft seal is placed along with the transmission; therefore, the process of replacing it requires the removal of transmission, as well as the clutch and flywheel assembly. This is a very involved job.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Front Crankshaft Seal?

  • Oil leaking from the front crank pulley.
  • Oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch housing, where the block and transmission meet.
  • Clutch slip caused by oil spraying on the clutch.

How important is this service?

Letting either crankshaft seal continue to leak can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides the maladies caused by driving around with little to no oil flowing in the engine, the faulty seal will be spread oil through the engine bay and undercarriage of your car as you drive, a mess that is difficult to clean up and can be a fire hazard. Replacing is better addressed sooner than later.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,385)

Rating Summary
2,214
84
19
12
56
2,214
84
19
12
56

Frank

8 years of experience
130 reviews
Frank
8 years of experience
Audi 100 V6-2.8L - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Chicago, Illinois
Frank was great - kept me informed and performed a solid inspection of a vintage car that I was purchasing 800 miles from home.

Bereketeab

7 years of experience
110 reviews
Bereketeab
7 years of experience
Audi 100 V6-2.8L - Spark Plugs - Sacramento, California
Goes above and beyond, helped save my coil pack when a plug wire was stuck in it. He didn't give up and got it out and finished the job.

Ben

41 years of experience
1410 reviews
Ben
41 years of experience
Audi A8 Quattro V8-4.2L - Front Crankshaft Seal - Houston, Texas
Excellent experience

Jimmi

27 years of experience
231 reviews
Jimmi
27 years of experience
Audi A4 Quattro L4-2.0L Turbo - Water Pump Replacement - Orlando, Florida
Jimmi was very knowledgeable about the car along with being very professional. Went above and beyond expectations with the timely service appointment and the efficient manner which the work was completed. I recommend Jimmi to be your mechanic on your next repair.

Excellent Rating

(2,385)

Rating Summary
2,214
84
19
12
56
2,214
84
19
12
56
Number of Audi services completed
26235+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Does the Power Windows Anti-Pinch Safety Feature Work?
Closing your power window is as easy as pressing or pulling on the window switch until your window reaches the...
How to Become a Certified Mobile Vehicle Inspector (State Car Inspector Certified) in Vermont
Automotive technician jobs include mobile vehicle inspectors. Learn how to do car checks in Vermont through the Universal Technical Institute.
How to Replace a Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Switch
An engine has a variable valve timing switch that fails when there is a reduction in engine power or the Check Engine Light illuminates.

Won't shift into 3rd gear and bogs down after 2005 Chevy Blazer

This sounds like you may have internal transmission issues on your 2005 Chevrolet Blazer. It could be caused by low transmission fluid (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/transmission-fluid-service), a faulty shift valve, or possibly burned clutches. Smell the transmission fluid. If it smells burnt, then...

The fluid in the power steering pump is overheating.

Hi there. There is a blockage in the system causing the pump to purge and build up to max pressure. Check the hoses and see if there is any issues with fluid flow. If the steering is easy to move...

Why does my car keep jerking and trying to shut off

This problem of erratic idle speed is often referred to as "surging" or "hunting". The causes include a faulty idle air control valve or circuit (IAC), a faulty ECM (not common), faults in the fuel pump control circuit, defective spark...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com