Saturn LS Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(9)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(9)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Saturn LS Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $228 with $88 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$844.66Shop/Dealer Price$974.98 - $1347.31
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$634.15Shop/Dealer Price$758.02 - $1125.52
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$511.74Shop/Dealer Price$560.00 - $695.18
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$511.74Shop/Dealer Price$560.00 - $695.17
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$823.94Shop/Dealer Price$953.64 - $1325.51
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$720.14Shop/Dealer Price$820.82 - $1112.54
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$634.15Shop/Dealer Price$758.06 - $1125.59
2000 Saturn LSL4-2.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$667.90Shop/Dealer Price$755.20 - $1007.49
Show example Saturn LS Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Saturn mechanics

Real customer reviews from Saturn owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
9
0
0
0
0
9
0
0
0
0

Richard

12 years of experience
450 reviews
Richard
12 years of experience
Saturn LS L4-2.2L - Coolant is leaking - Odenton, Maryland
Great Service! He was knowledgeable about what my issue was and provided me with the help that I needed.

Oscar

25 years of experience
72 reviews
Oscar
25 years of experience
Saturn LS L4-2.2L - Car is not starting - Odenton, Maryland
Oscar was very professional and knowledgeable about cars. He let me know exactly what was wrong with my car. I had been told my fuel pump was bad which is why my car wouldn't start. Well turns out that wasn't the case at all. Oscar found that it was a broken timing chain was the reason for my car not starting. I'm glad I found that out before shelling out unnecessary money on something that wasn't broken at all. All in all Great service across the board and I would highly recommend Oscar for any auto needs.

Harish

28 years of experience
588 reviews
Harish
28 years of experience
Saturn SC2 L4-1.9L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left) - Charlotte, North Carolina
Very professional, on time. Did the job without a problem and very quick. Would recommend him to everyone that ask about who does work on my car.

Kerry

32 years of experience
27 reviews
Kerry
32 years of experience
Saturn Vue V6-3.5L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left, Front Lower Right) - Lithia Springs, Georgia
Great! Very professional and completed work quickly. He explained what he did and we discussed future work for my SUV. Thank you Kerry!

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
9
0
0
0
0
9
0
0
0
0
Number of Saturn Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
99+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Saturn MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

The Guide To Colored Curb Zones in New York
New New York parking laws: understanding the basics If you are a licensed driver in the state of New York, you are likely well aware of the various laws regarding the roads. You know the speed limits and you know...
Veteran and Military Driver Laws and Benefits in North Dakota
The The state of North Dakota offers a number of benefits and perks for those Americans who have either served in an Armed Forces branch in the past, or are current active military members. North Dakota military residents returning from...
5 Essential Things to Know About Car Auctions
Car Car auctions are a great place to get a good deal on a used vehicle. There are different types of auctions, including dealers-only that require you to have a dealer license to purchase. If you don’t have a license,...

Vibrating when I stop 2007 Chrysler Pacifica

Hello - if you mean that the vibration occurs while braking, irregular brake pad deposits on the rotors (sometimes referred to as "warped rotors" (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-brake-rotor-disc)) are the likely cause. Worn suspension struts and/or loose steering links make this problem worse....

My van is a custom conversion van, with LOW “Ground Effects” - what kind of jack will prevent damage.

Additional ground clearance, if required for any floor jacks, can be gained by driving the vehicle onto a very gradual ramp. Typically, ordinary 2 by 10's (ordinary framing lumber) is used for this purpose (designs vary, but it is easy...

Yesterday, for the 1st time, my 2016 KIA Sorento check engine light came on. I was getting ready to leave which I seldom go anywhere and saw it. The car drove as normal, I only went a short distance to pick up food. This morning I called dealer and they can't get me in until March 1st. I went to get a diagnostic read from O'Reillys (it is right behind my building) and code p0171 came up. They recommended using fuel system cleaner. I came home, pulled in the garage as normal cut car off. No problem. However, before I put the cleaner in, I tried to cut my truck back on again (not even sure why just a feeling) and it wouldn't start. All the lights worked on the inside and outside of truck but I noticed, in addition to check engine light, the battery and oil light were now on. This is so all of a sudden. Last oil change was 11/18, everything was well then. I keep it in my garage, barely drive due to quarantining etc. It is weird after the diagnostic test was ran, this happens. Any ideas on what it may be or why it happened so suddenly?

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com