Mercury Sable Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(249)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(249)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercury Sable Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $149 with $54 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2002 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$296.25Shop/Dealer Price$344.06 - $456.01
1987 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$219.97Shop/Dealer Price$261.23 - $362.48
1992 Mercury SableV6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$284.33Shop/Dealer Price$341.68 - $491.20
2000 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$268.25Shop/Dealer Price$316.05 - $427.99
1986 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$284.33Shop/Dealer Price$341.70 - $491.23
1992 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$284.33Shop/Dealer Price$341.68 - $491.20
1990 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$207.09Shop/Dealer Price$243.75 - $331.48
1989 Mercury SableV6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$231.95Shop/Dealer Price$275.19 - $381.86
Show example Mercury Sable Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercury mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercury owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(249)

Rating Summary
233
7
0
2
7
233
7
0
2
7

Gregory

31 years of experience
382 reviews
Gregory
31 years of experience
Mercury Sable V6-3.0L - Transmission fluid is leaking - Littleton, Colorado
Very personal and reassuring. I will ask for him next time.

Keven

7 years of experience
118 reviews
Keven
7 years of experience
Mercury Sable V6-3.0L - Brake Light Switch Replacement - Tacoma, Washington
Keven was very friendly good personality.

David

32 years of experience
107 reviews
David
32 years of experience
Mercury Sable V6-3.0L - Car is not starting - Phoenix, Arizona
He was very professional, friendly and knowledgeable, I would highly recommend him.

Duane

25 years of experience
510 reviews
Duane
25 years of experience
Mercury Sable V6-3.0L - Check Engine Light is on - Escondido, California
very polite & new what he was talking about. he was on time. tried to explain whats wrong w/car. I trust him as my mechanic & would like him to do the job with the quote that needs to be done on car. I rate his service today great!!!

Excellent Rating

(249)

Rating Summary
233
7
0
2
7
233
7
0
2
7
Number of Mercury Sable services completed
2739+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercury MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

2012 Chevrolet Traverse vs. 2012 Toyota Highlander: Which One Should I Buy?
Large SUVs are a huge and broad market, with a range of different offerings from economy to luxurious. The majority of the SUVs and crossover SUVs offer decent gas mileage, plenty of room for friends and family to ride along...
How to Register a Car in Pennsylvania
Pennsylvania Pennsylvania is a great state that is rich in both history and natural wonder. There is no mystery why so many people choose to make this state their home. If you are among the many that are moving to...
What Does the Trailer Tow Hitch Warning Light Mean?
The trailer tow hitch light is designed to warn you when there is an issue with your car's tow hitch, possibly that it is unlocked.

Car runs rough with AC on

It sounds like you may have a bad AC compressor or potentially a faulty MAP Sensor. When the AC compressor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/ac-compressor-replacement) is beginning to fail, this may incur an increased load on the motor as it works harder than usual...

A4 B8 Quattro coding P0016 and P0299

The P0299 may be a s simple as a bad air hose, but P0016 is a big deal! It would be best if you don't attempt to start the car again until you have it checked out! The code refers...

I swapped car with my daughter to put new winter tires on hers (I always use steel spiked winter tires here in Sweden). It is a 2011- Seat Leon with 155 000 km on the odometer (about 9700 sm).The tires, Good Year Ultra Grip, I put on have in reviews received good grades on noise, but I feel that I hear a rumbling noise that I do not recognize even though these types of tires always produce more noise than summer tires which it had when I last drove it.Putting my finger on the wheel hubs outside of the brake disks, the left hub is lukewarm but the right one is cold, this after an hour drive on the motorway in -7 degrees C.I just replaced the rear wheelbearings on my Volvo V70, but it had more than twice the distance on the odo. That hub was hot after driving it and some noise.On the V70 my reasoning was that if one was warn out, the other one would not last much longer so I changed the both of them.Can I be sure that this really is a faultering bearing on the Seat? In that case chances are that it is a premature failure or? and in that case I need to change only the left one?I do all this myself in my garage, therefor I don´t want to go to the dealership to pay for the diagnosis and then decline having them do the job.How can I be sure I take the right decision?

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com