Mercury Meteor Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(12)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(12)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercury Meteor Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $174 with $79 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1961 Mercury MeteorV8-4.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$416.35Shop/Dealer Price$501.69 - $735.21
1963 Mercury MeteorL6-2.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$363.71Shop/Dealer Price$440.91 - $649.96
1963 Mercury MeteorV8-6.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$823.25Shop/Dealer Price$1015.33 - $1569.04
1961 Mercury MeteorL6-3.6LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$363.71Shop/Dealer Price$440.89 - $649.92
1962 Mercury MeteorV8-4.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$363.71Shop/Dealer Price$440.92 - $649.99
1962 Mercury MeteorL6-2.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$516.10Shop/Dealer Price$614.92 - $861.79
1961 Mercury MeteorL6-2.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$326.47Shop/Dealer Price$392.97 - $570.24
1961 Mercury MeteorV8-4.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$527.10Shop/Dealer Price$626.44 - $873.70
Show example Mercury Meteor Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercury mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercury owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(12)

Rating Summary
11
1
0
0
0
11
1
0
0
0

AL

12 years of experience
234 reviews
AL
12 years of experience
Mercury Meteor V8-3.6L - Car is not starting - Cocoa Beach, Florida
Great job, AL, right on time, perfect assessment, I will definitely use again!

David

10 years of experience
193 reviews
David
10 years of experience
Mercury Marauder V8-4.6L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Upper Left, Front Upper Right) - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Does good work I have no complaints

Jonathan

13 years of experience
171 reviews
Jonathan
13 years of experience
Mercury Milan L4-2.3L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left) - Attleboro, Massachusetts
Jonathan was on time, very nice, knowledgeable, and went above and beyond to get my car fixed. He was out in wet crappy weather but kept a smile the whole time.

Jose

25 years of experience
64 reviews
Jose
25 years of experience
Mercury Mountaineer V8-4.6L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left, Front Lower Right) - Oakland, California
Amazing work

Excellent Rating

(12)

Rating Summary
11
1
0
0
0
11
1
0
0
0
Number of Mercury Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
132+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercury MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Top 10 Scenic Drives in Vermont
With approximately 75% of its landscape covered in forest and being one of the least populated of the United States, Vermont is chock full of unspoiled natural beauty. Where civilization is to be found, it’s not quite like other places,...
How a Modern Engine Works
You You turn your key in the ignition, and the engine fires up. You press the gas and the car moves forward. You take the key out and the engine turns off. That’s how your engine works, right? It's a...
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Downshift Solenoid
Common signs that this component of automatic transmissions is failing include erratic or late shifting and the Check Engine Light coming on.

Problem with battery.

The corrosion problem is due to the battery acid leaking onto the cables and causing the failures. The alternator may be overcharging the battery or it could be the battery temperature sensor causing the battery to be overcharged. The recommendation...

Engine lost power and EPC light came on

Hello. If the dealership follows the proper rebuild procedures there should be no real cause for concern, however there are a few things you can do to protect yourself from a repeat failure. Primarily, you can choose to have the...

Flapping noise when braking

Hi there: It's highly possible that the source of your front end noise is a faulty or worn out wheel bearing. In most cases when the wheel bearings wear out, the noises are caused by lack of lubrication or metal-to-metal...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com