Mercedes-Benz R350 Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(98)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(98)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz R350 Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2012 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$139.69 - $150.72
2008 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.72 - $130.77
2013 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.72 - $130.77
2010 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.68 - $130.70
2007 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.75 - $130.82
2011 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.72 - $130.77
2006 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$135.28 - $143.00
2013 Mercedes-Benz R350V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$135.94 - $144.14
Show example Mercedes-Benz R350 Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(98)

Rating Summary
89
4
1
0
4
89
4
1
0
4

Glenn

19 years of experience
77 reviews
Glenn
19 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz R350 V6-3.5L - Brake Rotor/Disc Replacement (Front) - Arlington, Virginia
Repeat customer due to high satisfaction. Great value and service.

Patrick

32 years of experience
369 reviews
Patrick
32 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz R350 V6-3.5L - Drive Belt Tensioner - North Las Vegas, Nevada

Shaun

16 years of experience
238 reviews
Shaun
16 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz R350 V6-3.5L - Oil Change - San Jose, California
Shaun is trustworthy I got a referral from my daughter, has done an oil changed for her Mecedez also. I would recommend him to my close family and friends for sure. Thanks Shaun keep up the great of work! Jennyffer

Jason

11 years of experience
97 reviews
Jason
11 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz R350 V6-3.5L - Car is not starting - Phoenix, Arizona
Jason took 5 minutes and found the actual issue when the 2 other mechanics you sent out did not find.

Excellent Rating

(98)

Rating Summary
89
4
1
0
4
89
4
1
0
4
Number of Mercedes-Benz R350 services completed
1078+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercedes-Benz MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

4 Essential Things to Know About the Spare Tire in Your Car
No one likes the idea of being stranded because they get a flat tire. Having a spare in the vehicle is always...
A Mechanic's Guide to the Parts of a Car
Modern cars have many different parts and features, including catalytic converters, anti-lock brakes, four-wheel drive, and keyless ignition.
How to Replace a Auxiliary Water Pump
A water pump (auxiliary) fails when the heater fluctuates or does not work at all or when the window defrost is not working properly.

The van stalls, jerks and hesitates

GM has a TSB out concerning clogged injectors (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-causes-fuel-injectors-to-get-clogged-or-dirty) that may cause all of the rough running/no start symptoms that you are experiencing. A professional fuel injector cleaning may help correct these various engine running issues. The procedure does require...

Crank bit won't turn over

This suggests you may have a fuel supply issue if you have confirmed that you do have spark. Try pulling one of the spark plugs out after cranking it to see if it is wet with fuel. If it is...

I have a P0236 code and I can't seem to find the problem

Hi there. In most cases, the OBD-II error code P0236 (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0236-obd-ii-trouble-code-turbocharger-boost-sensor-a-circuit-range-performance-by-jay-safford) indicates that the turbo boost pressure sensor A is slower to respond to changing pressure due to deterioration with age. When the boost pressure sensor can't catch up to...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com