Mazda 3 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement at your home or office.

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Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement Service

How much does a Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda 3 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement is $302 with $22 for parts and $280 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2013 Mazda 3L4-2.5LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$586.12Shop/Dealer Price$644.78 - $800.49
2005 Mazda 3L4-2.3LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$381.26Shop/Dealer Price$407.25 - $476.96
2014 Mazda 3L4-2.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$353.08Shop/Dealer Price$372.07 - $420.69
2008 Mazda 3L4-2.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$400.50Shop/Dealer Price$431.35 - $515.52
2013 Mazda 3L4-2.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$400.50Shop/Dealer Price$434.29 - $520.68
2005 Mazda 3L4-2.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$400.50Shop/Dealer Price$431.63 - $516.01
2012 Mazda 3L4-2.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$400.50Shop/Dealer Price$431.38 - $515.58
2016 Mazda 3L4-2.5LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$426.08Shop/Dealer Price$445.99 - $495.30
Show example Mazda 3 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement prices

What is the Front Crankshaft Seal all about?

A number of mechanisms must work together to make your vehicle move forward. One of the most important is the crankshaft, which converts rotary into linear motion; i.e., it transforms the force created by the engine's pistons moving up and down into a force that moves in a circular motion that causes a car’s wheel to turn. Enclosed in what’s called a crankcase—the largest cavity in the engine block, just below the cylinders—the crankshaft must be completely lubricated, essentially submerged in oil, to spin nearly friction-free and do its job properly.

Consequently, there are seals located at either end of the crankshaft that allow it to spin freely and keep engine oil from escaping the engine block, as well as prevent contaminants and other debris from entering and causing damage to the mechanism. Since there are two ends of the crankshaft, there are two types of seals: the front crankshaft seal and the rear crankshaft seal, also known as the front main and rear main seals.

Keep in mind:

  • Loss of oil will eventually cause serious internal engine damage.
  • Inspect the sealing surface of the crankshaft or the crankshaft pulley (depending on the engine design) for damage when replacing the crankshaft seal.
  • Oil degrades rubber components.

How it's done:

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands
  • The crankshaft damper and timing belt is removed
  • The crankshaft seal is removed and a new one installed
  • The timing belt and cover along with crankshaft damper is reinstalled
  • The engine accessory belts are installed and the vehicle is lowered off of the jack stands

Our recommendation:

One of the most important parts of your car, crankshaft seals are typically made from a durable material, such as a synthetic rubber or silicone, designed to handle the extreme pressure and temperatures as well as the caustic chemicals in your engine oil. Because they are exposed to such abuse, main seals are subject to a lot of wear and tear. And whether you are talking a front or rear main seal, replacement is the only cure when one malfunctions.

The good news is that the seals are relatively inexpensive components. The bad news is that neither is easy to replace.

Front seal: The front seal is located behind the main pulley that drives all the belts, which is, of course, always spinning. The main pulley throws any leaking oil out in a big circle. It can get thrown up on the alternator, steering pump, belts, in short anything attached to the front of the engine and cause a real mess and eventually some serious damage. Consequently, it has to be removed along with many of the components attached to the front of the block to replace the front main seal.

Rear seal: The rear crankshaft seal is placed along with the transmission; therefore, the process of replacing it requires the removal of transmission, as well as the clutch and flywheel assembly. This is a very involved job.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Front Crankshaft Seal?

  • Oil leaking from the front crank pulley.
  • Oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch housing, where the block and transmission meet.
  • Clutch slip caused by oil spraying on the clutch.

How important is this service?

Letting either crankshaft seal continue to leak can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides the maladies caused by driving around with little to no oil flowing in the engine, the faulty seal will be spread oil through the engine bay and undercarriage of your car as you drive, a mess that is difficult to clean up and can be a fire hazard. Replacing is better addressed sooner than later.

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John
33 years of experience
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I'll start with the basics: John is punctual, professional, quick, and very competent. I would absolutely recommend him to any of my friends and family. On to my visit, specifically: I had an issue with some suspension work that I did earlier this year (DIY). I was having trouble tracking down the issue, so I wanted to get some professional help. This was my first time ever using a mobile mechanic service, and had never met John before. He showed up within 2 or 3 minutes of the start of the appointment window. After the usual courtesies, he got right down to business. He asked a few questions, listened me describe the work I had already done, etc. Then, he took a quick look around and made his recommendations. I'm no mechanic myself, but I do have enough knowledge to be dangerous. I can tell you he didn't recommend anything unreasonable (no cabin air filter nonsense to run up the bill, etc.), and he definitely caught some minor screw-ups I made during my DIY adventures. We scheduled a time for him to come out and replace the parts (sway bar end-links), and parted ways. Again, he showed up right on time. He installed the links and made a couple of minor alterations to fix my mistakes, all in about 40 minutes or so. He probably could've done it faster if I hadn't been so chatty. If I had done the work myself, it would've easily been 3 or 4 hours (optimistic estimate). It was worth it to get it done quickly and professionally, and to have a second (more experienced) set of eyes on the work I did previously. You won't be disappointed with John. If you've never used a mobile mechanic before, you're missing out. It's a much better experience than getting an appointment at a shop, taking off work to drop your car off, finding a ride, blah, blah. John won't BS you. If he recommends a service, it's because your car needs it. He brings all the tools he needs, plus the parts he'll need for the service/repair. Unless it's one of the few things best done at a specialized shop (alignments and such), he can do it just as well as a traditional shop. Even if it wasn't cheaper, I wouldn't go back to a shop. Of course, it is cheaper, so that's nice, too.

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34 years of experience
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I'm exceptionally pleased with the brake service William provided to address a "soft pedal" on my 2007 Mazda 3. Midas serviced the brakes several weeks ago but couldn't fix the issue with the soft brake pedal. They referred me to the local Mazda dealer who recommended replacing the ABS control module at a cost of over $1,500. William was able to diagnose and fix the problem ( air still in the brake lines/ bleed brakes) in a little over an hour at a fraction of the cost.

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