BMW 430i Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(6)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(6)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 430i Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $195 with $55 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2018 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$297.28Shop/Dealer Price$329.42 - $416.12
2018 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$301.13Shop/Dealer Price$334.81 - $430.92
2017 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$330.33Shop/Dealer Price$364.41 - $460.82
2017 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$421.31Shop/Dealer Price$492.00 - $699.88
2018 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$611.10Shop/Dealer Price$687.59 - $899.83
2018 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$446.29Shop/Dealer Price$516.46 - $721.58
2017 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$330.33Shop/Dealer Price$364.43 - $460.86
2018 BMW 430iL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$284.97Shop/Dealer Price$314.64 - $398.65
Show example BMW 430i Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(6)

Rating Summary
6
0
0
0
0
6
0
0
0
0

Brian

24 years of experience
818 reviews
Brian
24 years of experience
BMW 430i L4-2.0L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Jacksonville, Florida
Brian was awesome. I talked live with him and he went over everything in great detail.....worth every penny I paid!

Matthew

34 years of experience
1438 reviews
Matthew
34 years of experience
BMW 430i L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Norfolk, Virginia
Excellent service! Matt was so friendly and kind. Thank you for helping me take care of my car. So easy and so fast.

Ben

13 years of experience
1 reviews
Ben
13 years of experience
BMW 430i L4-2.0L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Claremont, North Carolina
Great service

Matthew

34 years of experience
1438 reviews
Matthew
34 years of experience
BMW 430i L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Norfolk, Virginia
Matt is excellent. Kind helpful and trustworthy

Excellent Rating

(6)

Rating Summary
6
0
0
0
0
6
0
0
0
0
Number of BMW 430i services completed
66+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1200+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2013 Infiniti JX35
Designed Designed for those who need plenty of seating capacity but don’t want to drive a minivan, the 2013 Infiniti JX35 hits the mark for luxury vehicles in its class. With innovations that chosen for their convenience and safety, this...
A Buyer's Guide to the 2012 Volkswagen CC
At At some point, most of us have to choose between the cars we wanted when were kids and the ones we need for our commute to the office or to pick up our own children. With the 2012 Volkswagen...
10 Best Stores to Buy Auto Parts in Sacramento, California
Automotive technicians rely on auto parts stores to add and replace car parts. The best auto parts shop in Sacramento is O’Reilly Auto Parts.

1995 honda civic dx when starting in first the car jerks back and forth and sounds like its reving high then low then goes fine

This may be a sign of a faulty MAP sensor as the vehicle responds adversely to a load put on the motor (i.e. putting it in gear, making turns (which makes use of the power steering pressure switch) turning on...

I've got a 2003 Buick Century 3.1 engine. I have replaced the head gaskets, radiator, thermostat, water pump,and heater core and a

This is usually caused by air pockets in the system. Purge air from the cooling system and see if this fixes the problem. You may have a slipping serpentine belt and should check it for slipping.

Have a land rover free lander 2003, bought it last weekend brought it home no problem, recent seviced, yesterdy when i pulled up outside my house the engine management light came on and i didnt use it again until this morning, i got in it and when i turned the ignition it made a clunk noise and then wouldnt turn over but made a whinning noise each time i turned the key. a couple of points, when i collected the car last sunday the man said he had done oil and water etc, so i had no reason to check, however for some reason this motring i decided to check and there was oil but no water !!!! my fault for not checking when i collected, second point is that since picking it up i have had trouble with the alarm and immobilizer it takes several attempts to disarm the jeep and several combinatioona of the fob and key then eventually it will dis arm it could be posible the immobilizer isnt fully disarming or battery/alternator/starter issues ?

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com