Audi TT RS Quattro Hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,394)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,394)

Hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed Inspection Service

How much does a Hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi TT RS Quattro Hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2013 Audi TT RS QuattroL5-2.5L TurboService typeHissing noise when brake pedal is depressed InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2021 Audi TT RS QuattroL5-2.5L TurboService typeHissing noise when brake pedal is depressed InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2019 Audi TT RS QuattroL5-2.5L TurboService typeHissing noise when brake pedal is depressed InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2012 Audi TT RS QuattroL5-2.5L TurboService typeHissing noise when brake pedal is depressed InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2020 Audi TT RS QuattroL5-2.5L TurboService typeHissing noise when brake pedal is depressed InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2018 Audi TT RS QuattroL5-2.5L TurboService typeHissing noise when brake pedal is depressed InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example Audi TT RS Quattro Hissing noise when brake pedal is depressed Inspection prices

Brakes are the most important safety components on your vehicle. Despite that importance, it’s easy to take them for granted, at least until your car begins to do strange things. Ordinarily, pressing your brake pedal should result in only the car slowing down or stopping. If you hear a hissing noise when the brake pedal is depressed, it may mean there’s something that needs to be repaired in the system.

How this system works:

On many cars, the master cylinder works in tandem with a brake booster. The brake booster is mounted to the firewall, generally in front of the steering wheel position, and the master cylinder attaches to it. The entire point of the brake booster is to make it easier to press the brake pedal and slow or stop the car.

Your brake booster works on vacuum pressure. There’s a diaphragm inside that is responsible for maintaining pressure when you’re not pressing the pedal. However, when you do press the pedal, a push rod moves forward within the booster and into the master cylinder. The side of the diaphragm facing the cabin vents to atmospheric pressure, while vacuum is maintained on the other side.

This then equalizes with pressure on the other side of the diaphragm, providing the boost needed to make pressing your brake pedal easier. The hissing noise you hear when the brake pedal is depressed could be nothing more than ordinary operation, or it could be a sign of a deeper problem. There are a couple of different potential issues here, some more severe than others.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Leaking Vacuum Line: Your brake booster is supplied with vacuum from the engine via a vacuum hose. It’s usually located near the firewall. If this hose has a leak, it can be heard within the cabin.

  • Leaking Brake Booster Diaphragm: The diaphragm that’s responsible for maintaining pressure within the brake booster can fail, particularly if the master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster. When this happens, you’ll hear a hissing sound when depressing the brake pedal, but the pedal itself will be much, much harder.

  • Damaged or Missing Foam Silence: Most cars equipped with brake boosters also have a foam silencer that’s designed to help prevent you from hearing that hissing sound. If the silencer has degraded or been damaged, you’ll hear the hissing sound.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: If you hear a hissing sound and suspect that the problem is the diaphragm in the booster, the actual cause is likely the master cylinder beginning to fail. Signs that the master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster include low fluid in the reservoir with no visible leaks.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your brake system, including the brake pedal operation, the brake booster and listen to the hissing sound. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to crank the car in order to verify the hissing sound, and a test drive may be necessary to duplicate the complaint. Additionally, the mechanic will inspect the brake pedal operation, the condition of the brake booster, the master cylinder, the level of fluid in your system and more.

How important is this service?

Power brakes are wonderful things, making it far easier to work a brake pedal that would otherwise require significant force to activate. While the hissing sound may be a sign of nothing more dangerous than a failed piece of foam, it could be a symptom of something much more worrisome – a damaged brake booster and a failing master cylinder. You cannot afford to take chances with your brake system. One of our professional mechanics can inspect the entire system and determine if there’s cause for concern, and what needs to be done if there is a problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,394)

Rating Summary
2,221
85
19
12
57
2,221
85
19
12
57

Jonathan

35 years of experience
484 reviews
Jonathan
35 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-2.0L Turbo - AC Condenser Fan - New Port Richey, Florida
Outstanding job and perfessanalism. Highly recommendable.

Joshua

27 years of experience
709 reviews
Joshua
27 years of experience
Audi A4 Quattro V6-3.0L - Oil or Fluid is leaking - Oakland, California
I would only recommend Your Mechanic to someone who has a driveway. I do not, so it is a little stressful using my neighbor's driveway.

Jonathan

13 years of experience
171 reviews
Jonathan
13 years of experience
Audi A4 Quattro L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Milford, Massachusetts
Knowledgeable and very professional.

Kevin

24 years of experience
535 reviews
Kevin
24 years of experience
Audi A6 Quattro V6-2.8L - Car is not starting - Duluth, Georgia
As he was nice and professional, I don't feel as though I got the services that I paid for and I am not sure if I am getting a refund. I paid for a throttle body and engine light inspection. He did not replace the throttle body and no information has been provided in regards to the engine light inspection. He listed it as car won't start inspection which is not what I paid for. So I feel things were left incomplete and I am in same place where I started.

Excellent Rating

(2,394)

Rating Summary
2,221
85
19
12
57
2,221
85
19
12
57
Number of Audi services completed
26334+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Is It Safe to Drive With a Broken Sway Bar?
Your car’s suspension is very complex and requires a number of different components to provide the handling and performance that you need. One...
P2266 OBD-II Trouble Code: Low Voltage in Water in Fuel Sensor
P2266 P2266 code definition The P2266 code is set when low voltage is detected in the WIF (Water in Fuel) Sensor circuit at the Engine Control Module (ECM). Other fuel system codes may set along with P2266. What the P2266...
How to Troubleshoot a Car That Has Extra Bounce or Sway
Bounce or sway while driving a car can be caused by faulty struts, shocks, or worn out tires. Check and inflate car tires to begin the diagnosis.

Car not starting when Check Engine light is on

The most common problems for this car not starting is the distributor assembly components like the ignition module, coil, cap, rotor, distributor seal leaking oil into the distributor components. The best recommendation is to replace the distributor as an assembly....

My car won't start even with a new battery the alternator is a year old

Be sure the battery is fully charged. "New" batteries are not necessarily fully charged at time of sale. Of course, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated. With the key held in the "start" position, you...

Immediately after engine turns over power steering and dashboard loses power but comes back on after the car warms up.

Check to see if there is any loose wiring under the dashboard and if there is any loose ground wires. A loose wire will cause a circuit or multiple circuits to stop working. The wiring could be associated with a...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com